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VVV: a Very Vinous Vaucluse evening
A few weeks my friend Jean Philippe Héaumé had mentioned an evening with a few friends and winemakers, tasting good wine. This sort of get-together had already happened a year ago, again instigated by Jean Philippe, the pretext being to taste a bottle of 1955 Château Rayas white sweet wine; at least 20 wines were served as “apéritif ” back then… Jean Philippe is an online French wine merchant who… delivers!, each stop in his regular Tour de France becomes a “happening”. His site is Absoluvins (in french).
Lucien Biolatto contemplates his Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Add to this the fact that the event is to be held at La Martelière, the wonderful bed and breakfast of our friends Patrick et Annick Laget, at Le Thor in the beautiful Provençal countryside of Vaucluse; impossible to resist, I reserved without hesitating.
Soirée vineuse avec Jean Philippe Héaumé à la Martelière
Il y a deux semaines mon ami Jean Philippe Héaumé m’avait parlé d’une soirée en compagnie de quelques vignerons et amis, pour déguster des bons vins. Un groupuscule de cette sorte s’était déjà reuni, ,à l’instigation de Jean Philippe, il y a un an, avec le pretexte de deguster un Château Rayas blanc doux de 1955 : on y avait servi une vingtaine d’autres bouteilles comme “apéritif”… Jean Philippe est caviste à la fois virtuel (il ne vend que sur internet) et pourtant beaucoup plus réel et présent que les cavistes « conventionnels » (il livre lui-même, et chaque livraison est un « happening »). Son enseigne est Absoluvins.
Lucien Biolatto contemple son rouge du Clos du Mont Olivet
Ajoutons que l’événement a lieu à La Martelière, les chambres et tables d’hôte de mes amis Patrick et Annick Laget, situé au Thor dans la belle campagne du Vaucluse ; impossible donc de résister, je réserve sans hésiter.
Desert Island Wines
by Martin Field
Len Evans is reported to have once said that he’d hate to be marooned on a desert island with nothing but goats’ cheese to eat and sauvignon blanc to drink. With that in mind I conducted a straw poll of Australian wine writers (and one cheesemaker), based on the premise used by the BBC’s Radio 4 show, Desert Island Discs. That’s the long-running program where celebrities are invited to choose music to take with them in the event that they are about to be marooned on a desert island.
The hypothetical situation set for the writers was that they were about to be stranded on a desert island and they could only take with them two currently available Australian wines, a dozen of any one red and a dozen of one white (including bubbly).
Here’s what they said.
Picks of the mostly Oz bunch
by Martin Field
Caves de Beblenheim Pinot Blanc 2004 – Around $17 to $18
Appellation Alsace Contrôlée. Juicy aromas of ripe pears. Lovely mouth-filling style with flavours of pears and Granny Smith apples leading to a firm zesty finish. Excellent aperitif and solid entrée accompaniment.
Brown Brothers Vermentino 2005 (cellar door release) – $16-ish
Very pale, edge of green. Distinct citrussy fragrances on the nose. Quite a dry style with lots of mouth-watering, acid tang and noticeable alcohol (14.5%) warmth. Flavours are of citrus and maybe hay – not unlike a good semillon.
I 70 piccoli e grandi protagonisti di TigullioVino.it Meeting 2006
TigullioVino.it Meeting 2006 – Elenco Espositori (English – Francais)
Excelsior Palace Hotel, Rapallo (GE)
Lunedì 19 Giugno 2006
Web : http://meeting.tigulliovino.it
E-mail : comunica@tigulliovino.it
E’ online la lista degli espositori della Seconda Edizione di TigullioVino.it Meeting, l’appuntamento annuale con la selezione vini di TigullioVino.it.
la vente
Six mois environ depuis le dernier contrôle , Claude, le Dogue et son équipe n’avaient pas chômé.
Ce n’étaient pas tant les 170 hectolitres à l’hectares de moyenne qui posaient problème, ni les fermentations encore que les levures étaient rares depuis la réforme , cinquante mille hecto qui fermentent fallait quand même le faire dans cet environnement pouilleux ou tout manquait. Les levures on pouvait encore s’en passer, le Dogue travaillait avant dans une coopérative du sud, mais l’eau propre manquait, l’huile pour lubrifier les machines était hors de prix, le carburant, un mélange d’huile de colza et huile d’olive de seconde pressée était d’une qualité déplorable et figeait dans des bidons qu’il fallait vider à la spatule, rien, non rien ne tournait plus depuis que toutes les ressources naturelles appartenaient à deux multinationales qui se tiraient la bourre.
L’état ne contrôlait plus que l’alimentaire produit dans des usines qualifiées pour ça, principe de précaution disait-il, monopole disaient les opposant, mais pas trop fort pour éviter la prison, faut pas rigoler avec la contestation par ces temps bouleversés.
Nebbiolo Grapes 2006
Da gioved’ 09 a domenica 12 marzo in una bella, ma stretta, cornice presso l’ Ampelion di Alba (scuola enologica) si è tenuta la seconda rassegna internazionale dedicata al vitigno Nebbiolo.
In questa occasione, preceduta da due giorni di convegni che spaziavano dalle tecniche colturali fino alla comunicazione del vitigno stesso, si sono tenute delle interessanti verticali e degustazioni varie presso i banchi di assaggio.
Io sono riuscito a palesarmi soltanto domenica 12, in compagnia di Navig, che mi aveva preceduto dal giorno prima;
ore 10,00, coltello fra i denti, ci siamo precipitati sui banchi di assaggio, in un ordine (per così dire) di importanza: siamo partiti dai viticoltori langaroli per spostarci poi su quelli valtellinesi e alto piemontesi….tralasciati quasi tutti gli internazionali che per la verità, la metà di loro non era neppure presente.
Ecco, di seguito, alcune osservazioni riguardo alle degustazioni che mi hanno più favorevolmente impressionato…
Australian Tasting Notes
by Martin Field
Chapel Hill Unwooded Chardonnay 2005 – around $14 (Australian dollars)
Fresh grapey juicy nose. Youthful and refreshing in the mouth, showing bags of ripe fruit – dried pears? and zingy acidity. Excellent as a chilled luncheon aperitif.
Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2004 – around $20
Compôte of stone fruits and hints of toasty oak lift the nose of this one. Soft and rich in the mouth, flavours of apricot conserve are dominant while the finish is firm enough to suggest entrée style accompaniments.
Six ways to ease the Aussie wine glut
by Martin Field
The old brain has been chugging away addressing the ongoing problem of over-supply of wine grapes and wine in Australia. Although the 2006 vintage is not a record one the wine glut has seen grapes rotting on the vine, wineries going broke and, as you’d expect, corporate ethicists from larger wine companies inventing more devious strategies to dishonour contracts with grape growers.
But I have a few strategies of my own to suggest and these, if applied across the board, will undoubtedly transform excess into success.