VVV: a Very Vinous Vaucluse evening

A few weeks my friend Jean Philippe Héaumé had mentioned an evening with a few friends and winemakers, tasting good wine. This sort of get-together had already happened a year ago, again instigated by Jean Philippe, the pretext being to taste a bottle of 1955 Château Rayas white sweet wine; at least 20 wines were served as “apéritif ” back then… Jean Philippe is an online French wine merchant who… delivers!, each stop in his regular Tour de France becomes a “happening”. His site is Absoluvins (in french).

Lucien Biolatto contemplates his Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Add to this the fact that the event is to be held at La Martelière, the wonderful bed and breakfast of our friends Patrick et Annick Laget, at Le Thor in the beautiful Provençal countryside of Vaucluse; impossible to resist, I reserved without hesitating.

Catherine and I arrive at 8pm, Jean Philippe is already at work, exchanging cases of wine and … pepper, on the parking area of La Martelière…

We head up to our room, then join the others for apéritif. Everyone is there:
– Patrick and Annick Laget,
– Florent Salce
– Jérôme Bressy (Domaine Gourt de Mautens, AOC Rasteau),
– Thierry Sabon (Clos du Mont Olivet, AOC Châteauneuf du Pape),
– Frédéric Arnal(domaine Arnal), Marc Gerise and François Bruschet
– Eric Sapet, a well known chef in our region
– Alain Drillat and Pierre Payet-Burin AKA « les iacchosalpins »
– Thierry Hortigue of Degustateurs.com

The 27 wines decribed below were tasted accompanied by a generous buffet prepared by Patrick and Annick: charcuterie, terrines and a really nice salad of potatoes and olives, cheeses from the legendary Vigier at Carpentras (nice chèvres, a 24-month old conté), a dessert of pears on an almond shortbread slice.

Thanks again Jean Philippe, Patrick and Annick for an unbelievable evening.


**Domaine de la Bohème, Festejar, Cotes d’Auvergne sparkler – a pleasant an promising start with this wine by Patrick Bouju, very much active on our french wine forums.

***Clos du Mont Olivet, 2005, Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc AOC magnum – Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache with very good acidity considering this is a southern wine.

**La Préceptorie de Centernach, ΖΩΗ, Zoé 2004 – A true explosion of fruit flavours in this very drinkable entry level wine.

***Domaine Arnal, Les Commeres 2002, Vin de Pays de la Vaunage – This is a mystery grape variety, the word cabernet is bandied around, it is in fact Marcellin (a cross of grenache and cabernet franc), very fruity.

Patrick Laget, François Bruschet, Marc Gerise and Frédéric Arnal


*Domaine des Pensées Sauvages, 1999, Corbières AOC – Dense matter in a pleasant wine.

*Mas d’Agalis, Navis 2004, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Salagou – a nice little wine.

**Domaine de Gramenon, Les Hauts de Gramenon 2003, Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres AOC – Very “transparent” as most wines without sulphites, fruit and more fruit, still bery young.

**Domaine Arnal, Les Mégères 2003, Coteaux du Languedoc AOC – interesting, still young.

**Château de Cazeneuve, Le Roc des Mates 2001, Pic Saint Loup AOC – again lots of red berries and a well done oak aging.

***Clos Milan, 1999, Les Baux de Provence AOC – black chocolate covered peppered strawberries.

****Domaine Léon Barral, Valinière 2002, Faugères AOC – A mentholated mourvèdre with vigorous tannins, very promising, I like this wine a lot.

**Château Vannières, 1998, Bandol AOC – typical Bandol signature, round and a little tired, aromas not entirely clean.

Jérôme Bressy, Domaine Gourt de Mautens

****Domaine Gourt de Mautens, 2004, Rasteau AOC – I was expecting the powerful oaked wines I had tasted a few years ago, since 2001 Jérôme has switched to bringing out finesse and elegance, here we find a superb acidity and length, this is Grenache with a little Carignan and Mourvèdre, beautiful.

Thierry Sabon, Clos du Mont Olivet

****Clos du Mont Olivet, 1985 Magnum, Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge AOC – Nice grenache colour, again great acidity, mentholated aromas and tar, superb. I almost guessed the year (off by one). I will not tell anyone the price of these wines.

Florent Salce, Jérôme Bressy and Thierry Sabon


**Château Fontvert, 2004, Côtes du Luberon AOC – Classic vermentino aromas and white flowers.

**Domaine François Legros, 2002, Saint Aubin Premier Cru “En Remilly” AOC – Oak dominates, but one guesses that there is some good stuff underneath that wood, I would try it again in a few years.

**Domaine Mouthes Le Bihan, Pérette et les Noisetiers 2003, Côtes de Duras AOC – nobody recognizes this as being sauvignon !

**Les Caves La Liaudissaz, Marie Thérèse Chappaz, Grain d’or 2003 – Excessive oak on this dry 100% Marsanne wine, made by the swiss queen of … botrytis wines.

*Simon Bize, “Les Bourgeots”, Savigny les Beaune AOC – no memory of this one, I must have passed out.

***François Chidaine, Clos Habert 2003, Montlouis sur Loire AOC – Cooked fruit, honey, still very yong, very nice.

Thierry Hortigue, Pierre Payet-Burin and Alain Drillat

Sweet whites

****Selbach Oster, 1999, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese – Initial typical petrol-riesling aroma gives way to a citrus explosion of grapefruit finishing on lime, superb effect, more proof that german riesling has no competition, not even from our Alsace… Tonight this wine is very expressive.

***Domaine Bellegarde, Cuvée Thibault 2001, Jurançon AOC – nice Jurançon white, citrus, acidity, discrete oak aging, very nice.

**Domaine de Souch, 2002, Jurançon AOC – pale in comparaison with the previous wine.

****Domaine Patrick Baudouin, Maria Juby 2003, Coteaux du Layon AOC – Patrick’s masterly touch is evident here, superb intense balance, lemon, wax, honey, quince jelly.

Jean Philippe Héaumé and Eric Sapet

Sweet reds

**Mas Mortiès, Tombé du Ciel 2003, Vin de Table – cooked red berries, but the tannins seems to be out ofplace after tasting botrytis wines. To be tried again in better conditions.

***Préceptorie de Centernach, 2001/02, Maury AOC – Tis is the beginning of a nascent solera, the maury brings to mind chocolate, is it real or in my head? Delicious, tannic with well integrated alsohol.

***Domaine Gourt de Mautens, 2004, Rasteau AOC vin doux naturel – Great length and red berries, tobacco.

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About Mike Tommasi

~~~EN I live in Provence, around Bandol AOC, on the shores of the Mediterranean. My profession, which has nothing to do with wine or food, allows me to travel a lot, plus I am a volunteer organizer of Slow Food, so I organize food and wine events and I am lucky to have plenty of occasions to sample all the wonderful terroirs of the world. I created this blog as a community outlet for stories and information about wine and food, with a lot of help from my friends. ~~~FR Je vis sur le littoral de Provence, atour de l'AOC Bandol. Ma profession, qui n'a rien àvoir avec le vin ou l'alimentation, m'oblige à voyager loin et souvent ; en plus, en tant que bénévole de l'association Slow Food. Ainsi, j'organise pas mal d'événements oeno-culinaires, et j'ai la fortune d'avoir pas mal d'occasions pour découvrir toutes les bonnes choses issues des terroirs du monde entier. J'ai créé ce blog comme véhicule pour un groupe d'amis collaborateurs qui aiment raconter des histoires sur le vin et le bon manger. ~~~IT Abito in Provenza mediterranea, vicino alla AOC Bandol. La mia professione, che non ha nulla a che vedere con il vino o il mangiare, mi permette di viaggiare spesso e dappertutto, e in più sono un organizzatore dell'associazione Slow Food, quindi organizzo eventi eno-gastronomici e ho molte occasioni per scoprire gli eccellenti prodotti dei numerosi terroir del mondo. Ho creato questo blog come veicolo per una comunità di amici che amano scrivere sul vino e sul buon mangiare.

2 thoughts on “VVV: a Very Vinous Vaucluse evening

  1. Tina

    Has anyone tried virtual wine tasting with Tastoria.com? I did it on Saturday night. I ordered my case of six bottles of wine that were to be tasted, they were delivered to my door. Then, on Saturday evening I invited friends over and logged on to http://www.tastoria.com with my passcode that was included with my wine. We had our very own wine tasting party at my house by viewing the web broadcast live and interacting with the panel of wine experts and other viewers through the chat room. It was so much fun. It took all the intimidation out of a formal wine tasting because we were in a relaxed atmosphere. There was a great selection of wines, which we all had different opinions on. It was very entertaining and educational at the same time. The next one is May 12. I’ll be there.

  2. Terri

    Yes, I did the May 12 event. I’ll be doing the next one too on Friday, June 22, 2007. The theme this time is “Summertime Sip ‘n’ Sizzle” and they will be pairing “summer” wines with food you can cook on the grill. What a blast. The chat room for the May event was hilarious! and the panel really knew what they were talking about. The wines were diverse, everyone in our party had a different opinion on each wine.

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