Cosmic Green WinePosted by Martin Field on 14 September 2012 in Wine
Noosa attracts more than its fair share of visiting winemakers and most recently Margaret River winemaker, Vanya Cullen presented her wines to the locals. The occasion was a degustation dinner at Sails Restaurant, where I was able to chat to Vanya before guests arrived.
Cullen Wines not only has a reputation for superb, long-lived wines but also for its “green” credentials. Since its establishment over 40 years ago the company’s winery and vineyards have achieved certification as being organic, biodynamic and carbon neutral. A trifecta perhaps unique in Australian winemaking.
“Why green? I asked Vanya.
“In the late 1990s my mother and I could see that the soil and vines were not that healthy. Intuitively we went towards organic viticulture and noticed a big difference within a year. We became an Australian certified organic property in 2003 and at the end of that year we went to a biodynamic workshop. It’s a way of farming that integrates the movement of the planets and homeopathic remedies that were described by Rudolph Steiner.”
I asked Vanya how she reconciled those beliefs with scientific winemaking. “I don’t,” she replied. “I think it’s about experience and intuition. We use science and technology in the winery; but there are some things you know because you have been there. We have observed since being biodynamic that fruit quality and soil health is definitely better.”
Finally, I asked Vanya what style of wine she preferred. “Wines that have a sense of being weightless; not heavy and thick and alcoholic, Wines that have balance, complexity, depth of flavour and length. And of course every great wine has to have something that is a mystery.”
This article was first published in Noosa Today, on 14 September 2012.