by Martin Field

Down the road apiece, just over an hour’s drive southeast of Melbourne, lurks West Gippsland, a relatively unsung region producing fine Victorian wine. On a day trip there in late October, I learned that the area is not only the source of fine cheese and asparagus (85% of the Australian crop), but that it also hosts some 20 and more up-and-coming wineries.

However, according to the geographically challenged boffins who created the Australia Geographic Indications appellation, some of the wineries at the Melbourne end of West Gippsland are in the Port Phillip zone. What would they know?

Gippsland, I was already aware, produces some great pinot noir and chardonnay but on tasting a cross-section of current reds and whites I was surprised to find examples of sauvignon blanc that could eventually challenge the classics of New Zealand and the sauvignon blancs of other, better-known Australian regions.

That being said, the strengths I saw were certainly in the three varietals above. I thought that other red varietals tended to err on the greener side of cool climate viticulture.

Of the many wines sampled, I particularly liked the 2006 Jinks Creek Sauvignon Blanc (Tonimbuk), a lovely pungent style, showing stacks of asparagus, kiwifruit and herbal characters – about $22 the bottle. Somewhat different in approach was the Limbic 2005 Sauvignon Blanc (Pakenham Upper), a clean, light and elegant wine with fresh passionfruit aspects and a crisp zingy finish – around $25 the bottle. Email limbic@vic.chariot.net.au.

The 2003 Cannibal Creek Pinot Noir (Tynong North) is a substantial drop with pronounced strawberry influence and an edge of savouriness from bottle development. Its distinctly dry finish promises much as a main course accompaniment – $30. Lillico Wines (Warragul) presented their 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, a medium-bodied red with a spicy, redcurrant bouquet, good fruit concentration and a firm drying tannic finish. Another red designed for well-seasoned main course dining – $20. Email: lillicowines@iinet.com.au.