What wine do you serve with a Bogan Burger?

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The daughter dined out at the Napier Hotel in downtown Fitzroy a couple of weeks ago and reported that a couple of lads in her party ordered and enjoyed a Bogan Burger. What’s a Bogan Burger? Well, on a foundation of buttered Turkish bread the chef places (not necessarily in this order) a steak, a crumbed chicken schnitzel, a potato cake, bacon, a fried egg, cheese, beetroot, lettuce, tomato, onions, and a slice of pineapple.

I would be surprised if tomato sauce didn’t appear in their somewhere too. All of this is topped off with another piece of bread and decorated with a cocktail umbrella. The price for this calorific cornucopia is a mere $AUD14.50. What I want to know is what wine would be a suitable accompaniment to this gourmet delight?

C’est quoi ce mot ?

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Vous connaissez ce jeu où il faut replacer un mot incongru dans une conversation. Et bien j’ai une manie, il faut que je replace ramulaud à tout bout de champ. Comment, c’est pas dans le dictionnaire ? Pô, pô, pô, s’il fallait n’utiliser que des mots du dictionnaire, hein. Cette semaine, j’ai une bonne excuse, le dossier restaurants du Figaroscope est consacré à quelques figures de la restauration parisienne. Dont Gilles Bénard de Chez Ramulaud.

C’est un de mes restaus préférés. Pour tout, la gentillesse de l’accueil, la cuisine, le cadre et surtout la carte des vins. Magnifique. Une carte très riche avec des vignerons de talent, une carte qui me donne un mal fou quand je dois choisir.

Chez Ramulaud 269 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine Paris 11è. Tél. : 01 43 72 23 29
Le soir, menu-carte à 28 €.

Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2002 – tasting note

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Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2002. About $AUD150. The RWT is black cherry in colour and near opaque. Nose of pepper and spices, cherry liqueur, aniseed and lightly charred French oak. The palate (this is way too young to drink now) is solid, dry and chewy with ‘cop this!’ tannins. The fruit as you might expect is enormous but is subdued at the moment by the untamed chewiness. The long finish has hints of raspberries and high-grade, slightly bitter, dark chocolate. This’ll all come together in a couple of years into a memorable blend that promises to cellar well for 20 and more years.

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Cork – ‘taint good enough

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Just recently I bought a dozen bottles of a wine I reviewed for an online newsletter. Since then two of the bottles I’ve opened have shown cork taint; the corks are those agglomerate ones with a disc of solid cork stuck on each end. I contacted the wine distributor about the problem – he said he’d send me two replacement bottles (still waiting) and I emailed the winemaker to alert him to the problem – no reply.

Now I’m wondering if the remainder of the dozen will be sound and whether the bottles I sold to a mate to try will be in good condition. It’s a mildly depressing prospect.

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