Jansz 2001 – up to $37
Pipers Brook. Tasmania. Chardonnay and pinot noir. Pale straw, fine to medium bead. Delicate floral nose with hints of brioche and lime. I’ve always enjoyed the Jansz style and this maintains the line: elegant, light and dry with an edge of cool climate zing to inspire the tastebuds.

Palandri Riesling 2004 – around $18
Frankland River, Western Australia. Light gold, hint of green. Attractive nose of lime sherbet. More of the zippy lime character along with a smidgin of Granny Smith apple comes through in the palate of this well-weighted white.

Tarrawarra Chardonnay 2003 – up to $40
Yarra Valley, Victoria. Lemony hues. Perfumed nose of peaches and toasty oak. A wine of lovely balance showing ripe stone fruit on the palate supported by noticeable yet well-integrated oakiness. Has a creamy mouth feel finishing with soft acidity.

McWilliams Riverina Botrytis Semillon 2004 – up to $30
Pale buttercup yellow. Lovely nose of apple pie and orange marmalade (the thick cut one). The palate exhibits a delicious melange of tropical fruits and citrus conserves, the honeyed sweetness is kept in check by judiciously sharp acid at the finish.

Pfeiffer Gamay 2005 – $15.50
Wahgunyah, Victoria. In colour similar to some Oz pinot noir but darker than a rosé. A juicy nose of musky roses and cherries. Light youthful and fruity palate – not unlike a young Beaujolais (same grape). Unusual style but quite delicious – serve it from the ice bucket. (Not literally.)

Zema Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 – up to $26
Dense crimson. Mulberries and currants and fruitcake on the nose. Fine but long-lasting tannins lend structure to a red bursting with well-ripened fruit. Those of us who remember that sad era when Coonawarra’s cabernets underwent the lean mean and green treatment can only welcome wines of generosity like this one.

Peter Lehmann Shiraz Muscadelle 2002 – up to $25
Barossa Valley, South Australia. Muscadelle is the grape used to make the fortified ‘tokay’ of Rutherglen fame – rarely seen with shiraz, though Peter Lehmann experimented with the blend back in the ‘60s. Deep ruby to black. Dusty, spicy, warm (15% alcohol) plummy nose. Big, rich mellow red with blackberry conserve and mocha flavours. Seems quite a soft wine at first but develops main course suited firmness at the finish.

Prices in Australian dollars.