The Ripening Sun

J’ai lu à grandes lampées Les Raisins du bonheur de Patricia Atkinson* et j’ai beaucoup aimé.

En 1990, Patricia Atkinson et son mari s’installent dans la région de Bergerac, dans une maison avec quelques hectares de vignes, après avoir vendu tout ce qu’ils possèdent en Angleterre. Mais son mari tombe malade et la vigne, qui ne devait être qu’une activité d’appoint, apparaît à Patricia comme le seul moyen de subsistance. Ne maîtrisant ni le français ni la conduite d’un vignoble, elle se collète aux deux avec énergie.

Son récit se lit comme un roman d’aventures, les péripéties de ses vignes saison après saison. Je prenais des averses, des coups de soleil en tournant les pages, j’étais courbatue à l’unisson au moment des travaux dans les vignes. C’est bien écrit, avec une bonne dose d’autodérision. J’ai refermé le livre, admirative de son courage et de son humanité. Reconversion non préméditée mais pleinement réussie.
Du coup, j’ai envie de découvrir ses vins et j’attends avec impatience son prochain livre, La Belle Saison, à paraître dans la même collection.

* Les Raisins du bonheur, Patricia Atkinson, éditions du Rocher, collection Anatolia.

Cape Blends and Pinotage

Cape blends – Pinotage or not to Pinotage?

The wine industry in South Africa is absolutely free to make wine from whatever and wherever they want – that may be unique in the world, with all of the AOC, DOC and such regulation.

There is an ongoing discussion about something they call ‘Cape blends’, but rather typically, the South Africans can’t agree on just what a Cape blend is. Half of them insist that it must include Pinotage as a principal component and the other half say they will put in anything they please. These notes are from a seminar aimed at surveying this issue, tasting both sorts of wines.

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Crasto, Matua, Valle D. Maria, Edge, Signorello

Notes from the Vancouver Wine Festival

Lunch with some of the winery principals – Ray Signorello, Christiano van Zeller of Quinta do Valle Dona Maria, Miguel Roquette of Quinta do Crasto, and Bill Spence, manager at Matua Valley in New Zealand. These lunches offer a wonderful opportunity to chat informally with knowledgeable wine people while tasting some of their wines with lunch.

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Cape Wines in Vancouver

The Vancouver International Wine Festival is a wonderful opportunity to meet the principals of many wineries and discuss the wine, how they are made, how they mature, and new directions for the wineries. I gritted my teeth, took 2 days off from the office, giving my secretary instructions to advise clients trying to find me that I was on a study session, and headed out to study for all I was worth. There are more than 500 wineries in South Africa today, and I was keen to add some new and interesting finds to my list of old stand-bys.

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Wine writers and ethics

Can wine lovers really trust wine writers? Are wine critics and reviewers truly independent representatives of wine consumers or are they just wine insiders with their snouts in the trough (lake?) of wine provided by a generous wine industry that is always on the lookout for a free editorial plug?

This perennial question arose again recently and in response I dug out a relevant piece I wrote on the topic in 2002. Here it is.

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