Coldstream Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – up to $25
Yarra Valley, Victoria. Green-tinged, extra pale. Voluminous nose of lychee and asparagus. Beautifully made wine, just bursting with varietal elements including lychee, passionfruit and citrus. The citrus zing at the finish completes the pleasure of drinking this.

Kooyong Pinot Noir 2003 – around $40
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. Mid-crimson. Smoky, tobacco leaf, redcurrant nose. Full-on style of pinot – none of your dilute raspberry cordial here. Mouth-filling, cool climate berries are supported by fine tannins over a base of lightly charred oak. Suit light mains.

Mantons Creek Tempranillo 2004 – cellar door price $37.50
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. Medium ruby. Warm nose with a fragrance of vanilla and other exotic spices. Generous, round palate of mocha and blackberries with drying tannin structure. Persistent, warming (15.6% alcohol) finish. Delicious.

Goundrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 – up to $32
Mount Barker, Western Australia. Deep red, purple edge. Blueberries, anise and oaky nose. First impressions are an abundance of blueberries and blackcurrants accompanied by chewy tannins. The wine shows fine fruit intensity and finishes with considerable firmness. Will cellar well to 2012.

The Wilson Vineyard Hand-plunged Shiraz 2003 – $30
Clare Valley, South Australia. Dense red to black. Nose of blackberry cordial and dusty, vanillan new oak. Huge, solid red. Too young to drink really but the grippy tannins, excellent acid structure and extravagant fruit bode well for a long and promising life. Demands main course accompaniment. Cellar to 2015.
Prices in Australian dollars