Scarborough Semillon 2011 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Pokolbin, New South Wales. Aromatic nose of hay and young melon along with a hint of lemon oil. Dry, tangy, citric palate with a lip-smacking finish. Fine aperitif. .

Frogmore Creek Fumé Blanc 2011 – $28 ˜˜˜- ***. Tasmanian sauvignon blanc. Herbal-edged nose with a hint of tomato leaf and passionfruit, underscored by biscuity notes from new and aged French oak. The palate is fresh and very dry with a good length of flavour leading to a tangy, sherbert-like finish.

Hugh Hamilton The Floozie Sangiovese Rosé 2011 – $22.50 ˜˜- **. McLaren Vale, South Australia. Pale rosy pink. Sweet fruit nose hinting at new season cherries. Lively palate shows summer berries and finishes just off-dry. Try with a picnic lunch by the river.

Campbells Sparkling Shiraz – $30 ˜˜˜- ***. Rutherglen, Victoria. Foamy purple to black in the glass. Lovely blackberry nose. Full on palate of dark berries and dark chocolate that finishes firm enough to accompany a Christmas roast.

Cooks Lot Pinot Noir 2009 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Mudgee and Orange, New South Wales. Hues of cherry skin in the glass. Strawberries and light smoky notes on the nose. The strawberry character continues on the palate above a sub-structure of integrated tannins – these lead to a dry and persistent finish.

Raidis Estate Billy Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon $23 ˜˜˜- ***. Dense crimson hues. True varietal notes of black currant on the nose along with a hint of smoky oak. The palate reminds me of those black currant pastilles you used to get, the intensity not the sweetness that is. Tannins are nicely incorporated and the wine leaves an overall impression of smoothness.

Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2008 – $25 ˜˜˜˜- ****. Bendigo, Victoria. Black with a purple edge in the glass. Dusty nose with notes of Black Forest cake and a suggestion of liquorice allsorts. A complex and substantial wine in the mouth with an attack of assertive yet integrated tannins supporting flavours of blackberry conserve, cocoa powder, allspice and leather.

Yanjing Beer – about $3 per stubbie. From Beijing, China. Made from malted barley, hops, spring water and rice. Full strength – 4.5% alcohol. A light refreshing style with nice hoppy aromatics. The palate has sweet edges with a background of malt and finishes with mild hops bitterness.

Two Elk Apple Cider – 330ml 4-pack $16. Sweden, 4.5% alcohol. For some reason this made me think of elks acting out the old two dogs joke. A delicate light style. Pleasant autumnal apple aromatics with a palate that will suit drinkers who like cider at the sweeter end of the spectrum.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – fine drinking

*˜ – commercial

The glasses were the Bordeaux, Burgundy, Sauvignon Blanc and Montrachet models. For comparison, wines were also tasted in stock standard ISO glasses.

Mark made a strong case that the nose of a wine is the main factor in dictating its taste. He then demonstrated quite convincingly how different Riedel shapes enhanced their particular varietal counterparts. With a bit of deft glass-swapping he also showed how an unattuned shape could in fact diminish enjoyment.

The ISO glasses fared quite badly in all cases.

On the evening the standout matching was a Stoniers Reserve 2008 Pinot Noir in the Burgundy stem.

Thinks, I’d like to see a blind tasting exercise to really put the varietal glasses through their paces.

Thinks again, glassware enhancement of nose and taste must always be based on the assumption that the varietal tasted is true to type.

Geoff was (and is) an enthusiastic wine collector and, unusually for the times, didn’t only drink fine wine but also kept extensive notes on those he tasted and the various meals they accompanied.

Earlier this year he compiled a selection of these notes (14 November 1974 to 19 July 1977) and was kind enough to send me a copy. I have since told him that he could have had another career as a wine writer.

This excerpt, one of many, is from a meal we shared at Restaurant Chez Bebert on Tuesday 13 January 1976.

With garlic scallops, the McWilliams Mount Pleasant Anne Riesling, 1966. Rich honey-gold colour. The aroma was heavy and musty…good regional character with considerable acidity providing a pleasant balanced feel. Past its peak, but will continue to build great character.

And, Leo Buring Reserve Bin DWC II Barossa Valley Rhine Riesling, 1973. Exceptional quality dry white…delicate varietal expression, balanced, fresh and soft.

With steak, the Leo Buring Claret DR 163, 1964. Soft, broad, slightly earthy nose redolent of Hunter reds. Medium bodied satisfying palate sitting between the lush and the austere. Well balanced with a sharp tannic lift to the finish. Very good wine.

And, the Seppelt Cabernet Sauvignon TTI 47, 1971, Barossa Valley. This won the 1972 Jimmy Watson Trophy for best 1971 dry red. Big cabernet with a great deal of fruit flavor and rather prominent oak on the finish. A low tannin very good, lush wine, but maybe a little soft and fat.

Notes Copyright © 2011 Geoff Parker. 

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Cold Pressed means grapes were frozen and cold pressed at -18C. Light straw. Sweet nose of ripe apricots, pears and Seville marmalade. Palate is light and elegant with sweet fruitiness balanced by lemon zest acidity. Excellent dessert wine. NB I read the back label after tasting this wine and was surprised to find similar comments.

Reillys Riesling 2010 – $18 – AA+

Watervale, Clare Valley, South Australia. Near water pale, light green hue. Fresh sherbert and lime blossom nose. Dry, full, lip smacking, lemon / lime juiciness. Beautifully integrated acidity at the finish.

Thistle Hill Preservative Free Chardonnay 2011 – $22 – AA

Mudgee, New South Wales. No sulphur dioxide added. Very pale in the glass. Nose of white peaches with a hint of lemon zest. Soft rich palate shows dried pears with a hint of tropical fruits.

De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 – Seen for $24 – AA+

Light gold. Perfumey nose of apricot conserve and lightly toasted oak. Generous fruit on the palate is reminiscent of new season stone fruits, while the oak is nicely expressive rather than assertive. Try with a creamy pasta main course.

Houghton Stripe Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2010 – $15 – A+

Western Australia. Crimson in colour. Fruity nose, reminiscent of maraschino cherries. Medium-weighted in the mouth with more of the cherry fruit showing and light tannic astringency. Easy drinking with a pleasing dry finish. Good with main course food.

AC/DC Highway to Hell Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $16 and more – AA

Medium ruby, edge of purple. Dusty, wine gum nose. Dry and medium bodied showing aspects of blackcurrants and blueberries over fairly assertive tannins. Try with well-seasoned main course tucker.

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2008 – $18 – AA

Dark crimson hues. Plums and maybe a hint of chocolate on the nose. Solid red of velvety texture shows plenty of ripe summer berry fruit along with sweet vanillin oak.

Maximus Cadenzia 2009 – $25 – AAA

Mc Laren Vale, South Australia. Grenache 50%, Shiraz 35%, Mourvedre 15%. Dark ruby. Inviting nose of forest fruits and oaky sweet vanilla. Silky texture, buckets of ripe berries in the mouth and a long delicious finish. Good value for money. Hand me another bottle.

Bress Brut Cider – $20 (750ml) – AA

Harcourt, Victoria. 80% cider apples, 20% pears, six months on lees. Pale gold, light bead. Juicy green apple peel nose and a hint of pear juice. Smooth and creamy on the palate with a tad of brioche-like yeastiness. Goes down very easily with a just off-dry finish.

Holey Dollar Premium Rum – around $40

Fiji. Pot still, three years small oak maturation, 40% alcohol. Light sherry hues. Nose of light molasses leavened with a hint of vanilla and maybe a touch of lemon peel. Smooth sweet palate with edges of caramel, vanilla and aged oak. A good sipper on the rocks and a top mixer.

Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale 2011 – $5 (375 ml) – AAA

Top fermented, bottle conditioned ale. Foamy with light toffee hues. Fruity notes on the nose are moderated by hop aromatics. Creamy mouth feel exhibits delicious maltiness, a suggestion of mocha and balancing hoppy bitterness at the finish.

Ratings

AAA+ – extraordinary

AAA – outstanding

AA+ – classy

AA – first-rate

A+ – good stuff

A – commercial

Prices – Australian dollars

A French blend of dark rum from the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Réunion. Light tea hues. Aromatic nose, molasses predominant. A smooth, medium-weighted style; not as medicinal as some dark rums. Well suited to mixin’ rather than sippin’ straight.

d’Arenberg The Noble Botrytotinia F*ckeliana 2010 – $20 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale, South Australia; Semillon / sauvignon blanc blend; 8% alcohol. Sounds more like something itchy you’d go to the clinic for than a sweet white wine. Bright gold. Nose of passionfruit and zest of Seville oranges. Palate is smooth and viscous, laden with flavours of marmalade and rich apricot sauce. At first it tastes indulgently sweet but any hint of cloying is offset by upfront citric acidity. (Re net censors – insert *U above.)

Delatite Dead Man’s Hill Gewurtztraminer 2010 – $25 – ˜˜˜***

Bright, light and pale to the eye. Limes and faint musk and Turkish Delight in the bouquet. Smooth in texture, mouth filling with apple pie and rose water and mild acidity to finish.

Leasingham Bin 7 Clare Valley Riesling 2010- $23 – ˜˜˜***

Light straw. Dried pears, Granny Smith apples and lemon zest on the nose. Lemony, sherbert-like flavours dominate the palate, balancing nicely with a citric tang at the finish.

Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – $29 – ˜˜˜***

Almost water pale. Pungent tomato bush, black currant leaf and lychee nose. Light and bright in the mouth with more leafiness, grassiness and grapefruit notes. Medium acidity to finish.

Lindeman’s Bin 0905 Padthaway Nyrang Shiraz 2009 – $12.90 – **˜˜

Dark crimson, slight purple on the edge. Inviting ripe blackberry conserve on the nose. A dry and medium-weighted palate displays wild berries underpinned by a hint of black olives and savoury smokiness. Finishes firm. Excellent value.

Andrew Garrett Sparkling Shiraz NV – seen for $11 to $14 – ˜˜**

Purplish foam when poured. Ripe plums and dark cherries on the nose. A medium weighted, off-dry sparkler with flavours suggesting Cherry Ripe and Cassis.

Tarrawarra Estate K-Block Merlot 2009 – $35 – ˜˜˜***

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Mid ruby. The nose shows subdued, musky mulberry fruit and tight French oak. In the mouth, rich berry essences and a shade of mint combine with silky tannins and subtle use of barrel fermentation to present an integrated whole.

Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009- $40 – ****˜˜˜˜

Deep red with faint violet hues. Summer pudding nose with a hint of toasted oak. Dry, full and fruity in the mouth with somewhat assertive tannins that will soften nicely with a little bottle age. One to cellar for five years or so or to serve now with substantial main courses.

Fox Creek JSM 2008 – $22.50 – ˜˜˜***

McLaren Vale, South Australia. A blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Dark red to black. Generous plumminess, dark cherries and a hint of dusty oak on the nose. Warm and generous in the mouth where softish tannins support successive layers of ripe berries. Finish is long and moreish.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

˜˜** – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

A chardonnay and pinot noir blend from the house of Martel. Pale gold in colour with the slightest pink tinge; flowers and subtle notes of brioche on the nose. A fuller style, with apricot and dried apple flavours in the mouth along with a hint of citrus. Opens with fruit sweetness and firms up towards the finish.

Hollick Coonawarra Savagnin 2010 – $21 – ˜˜**

Juicy, fresh nose. Zesty, tangy palate with hints of lime and sherbet. Dryish flavoursome finish. Good entrée style.

The Lane Block 2 Pinot Gris 2010 – $30 – ˜˜˜***

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Perfumey spicy nose. Rich, mouth filling style with bags of apple and pear fruit over soft acidity.

Amberley Kiss & Tell Moscato Rosa NV – $15 – ˜˜**

Rosy pink. Raisiny Turkish Delight notes on the nose. Sweetish palate in this light (only 7% alcohol) style. Slight spritzig on the tongue.

Elmswood Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 – $45 – ˜˜˜˜****

Light ruby hues in the glass. Generous strawberry, smoky oak and savoury notes on the nose. Cherries and strawberries lead a dryish, slightly tannic palate in a well constructed take on this difficult varietal.

Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2010 – $40 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Shades of dark cherry to the eye. Powerful, ripe strawberry and maraschino conserves on the nose. A beautifully textured, almost chewy approach. It bursts in the mouth with berry ripeness over well-seasoned oak. One of the few pinots I’ve tasted that would convince welded on shiraz and cabernet drinkers to convert to the Burgundian grape.

Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Merlot 2006 – $40 – **** ˜˜˜˜

Deep crimson. Aromatic dark berries and a hint of anise on the nose. Smooth, silky tannic structure. Concentrated redcurrants and blueberries blend well with vanillin French oak and lead to a firm, lip-smacking finish.

Ratings

*****˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Nepenthe Pinot Gris 2010 – $19 - **- Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pale, hint of green. Subdued sherbet-like bouquet. Fruity ripe citrus in the mouth. Soft acidity to finish.

Summerhouse Chardonnay 2007 – up to $35 - *** – Marlborough, New Zealand. Mid-golden hues. Apricot conserve, toast, and white flowers on the nose. New season peaches and apricots on the palate with a firm infrastructure of barrel fermentation and firm acidity to finish.

De Bortoli La Bohème Act Two Dry Pinot Noir Rosé 2010 – $18 - **** – Yarra Valley, Victoria. Palest candy pink hues. Sweet strawberries and raspberries on the nose. Lovely dry palate with plenty of summer berries and a delightfully firm finish. Best rosé I’ve tasted this year.

Bellvale Pinot Noir 2007 – $35 – *** – Gippsland, Victoria. Dark cherry hues. Lifted nose of cherries, a hint of smokiness and strawberry tart. Well-fruited style with a hint of maraschino cherry and mid-dry tannins on the palate.

Peter Lehmann Clancy’s 2008 – $13 – ** – Barossa Valley, South Australia. Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot blend. Mid-crimson in colour. Nose of ripe blackberries and blood plums. A style of generous, smooth-textured red which typifies Barossa Valley offerings.

Thistle Hill Shiraz 2010 – $20 – *** – Mudgee, New South Wales. Preservative free. Dark ruby in colour. There is an appealing “thickness” about the nose of this along with mature fruit and hints of coffee and possibly aniseed. Well textured with grippy tannins along with top notes of mature fruit interwoven with earthy bush track character.

Zema Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2007 – $25 – **** – Dark crimson, purple edges. Aromatic bouquet of dark berries. Solid offering of mouth-filling fruit combined with slightly chewy texture. A firm, forceful aftertaste demands the accompaniment of main course dishes. Cellar to 2015.

Ratings

***** – outstanding

**** - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Last Wednesday we were hosted by the Illuminati wine family. We stayed an extra couple of nights in the wintery Le Marche region, just to attend the work organised appointment. We met up with Stefano Illuminati around midday for a tour of their facilities, a tasting and what was described as a lunch that was to be “nothing special” in the organising pre-emails.

The winery and vines are actually in the Abruzzo region which borders Le Marche to the south. Stefano shepherded us into his Porsche for a tour of their expansive vineyards, pointing out the different vineyards (Montepulciano being the star, the white Pecorino an up and comer), trellising techniques (they use both espalier and canopy styles) and described with ardour how the business has grown since his great grandfather established it over one hundred years earlier.

Discussing his forefathers brought Stefano to a more surprising topic of discussion. His and his peers worry for their children. He told us that unemployment in Italy is an escalating problem and quite movingly expressed his concern for the future Italy and how it will be for his two boys. He told us how lucky we were to be born in Australia, we shrugged our shoulders and half heartedly agreed.

His family have been doing business in Australia since 1987, he told us. “My father loves your country.” On Dino Illuminati’s first visit back in the 80s, he was determined to find a long lost friend. He arrived in Adelaide (he knew that much) with only a surname and the name of the Italian town where they had grown up.  He found the man, much older, bed ridden and suffering from Parkinson’s.

Finding his long absent friend, who had not quite found the better life in Australia, had emblazoned Dino with a curious infatuation; “Viva Australia!!!” he said to us later when we met him. Indeed.

Our “nothing special” lunch with Stefano was an absolute joy. He took us to La Sosta, a local trattoria run by friends of the Illuminati’s. As we were seated, he disappeared, only to come back moments later, having ordered our lunch with nonna in the kitchen. The menu they had created for us featured fresh local produce.

For antipasti we had fried Mozzarella (OMG), Ascolano Olives, a cow and sheep’s milk pecorino (cheese this time), locally made Prosciutto crudo and bruschetta (toast) with peppery green extra virgin olive oil drizzled over the top. The olives were particularly interesting; large and green, they were filled with a mix of cooked meat and herbs, then crumbed and fried. Very moreish, they went superbly with Illuminati’s sparkling white brut, a mix of Trebbiano and Verdicchio.

For Primi Piatti (“first plate” in Italian, most usually a pasta dish) we had two pastas, both served from the cooking pot on a trolley beside the table (lovely touch). The first was tagliatelle with FRESH porcini; the flavour was almost too intense for my taste, “almost” because the chef had very cleverly added just enough finely chopped parsley to contrast the pungent mushroom tang. The second pasta was equally delicious and simple; spaghetti with a light tomato and sausage meat sauce.

By this time we were in serious trouble, make no mistake when you hear someone say that the Italians are a generous people. Each of the dishes so far would have been enough to be considered a full meal by our normal “at home” standard.

The Secondi Piatti was a mixed grill, veal, lamb chops, sausage, pork ribs and pork belly, well seasoned and cooked to perfection. They were served with a simple cabbage and broad bean side dish, almost like a mash and delicately flavoured with garlic.

Well into our food coma, dessert is but a blurry memory to me now. I think it was trifle-esque, with a gaudy rose pink layer. It was the specialty of the house, so it must have been good.

Our meal was accompanied by the bottles left over from our earlier tasting. My favourite was the Pieluni, 100% Montepulciano; Colour – vibrant, dark, light-catching crimson, Nose – sweet black pepper, cherry and a hint of treacle, Palate – rich and velvety, elegant oak.

See other travels at Curiouser and Curiouser.

Gingin, Swan Valley and Pemberton, Western Australia. Pale straw. Bright aromas of tropical fruit salad. Medium weighted juicy palate continues with young pineapple and paw paw along with soft acidity.

Mount Langhi Ghiran Cliff Edge Riesling 2009 – up to $25 – **

Western Victoria. Pale with light green edge. Lemon zesty nose. Fresh lime, Granny Smith apples and dried pear on the palate lead to a slightly off-dry finish.

Chandon Vintage Brut 2007 – up to $40 – ****

Multi-region. Chardonnay – 54% and pinot noir – 46%. Golden hues, vigorous bead. Nose of just-baked Tarte Tatin and Apricot Danish. Mellow, rich mouthfeel. A complexity of well-integrated flavours includes apricot conserve, crusty baguette and delicate lime marmalade. The finish is long and satisfying and is supported by medium acidity.

Yering Station MVR 2008 – up to $25 – ***

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Blend of marsanne, viognier, roussanne. Light gold. Bouquet of honeysuckle and white blossoms. Velvety palate has hints of lemon butter, honeycomb and toasted almonds. Dry and full as you swallow.

Cab Mac Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 – $20 – ***

The name is based on the late Stephen Hickinbotham’s brilliant development of the traditional carbonic maceration method. Medium ruby. Lifted nose of Kirsch and raspberry conserve. Soft, attractive, fruity palate of ripe summer berries with enough mild tannins to add structure. A fine accompaniment, served cooled, for a spring picnic.

Scrimaglio Rocca Nivo Barbera D’Asti – high $30s – ****

Region: Nizza Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy. Denominazione Di Origine Controllata Superiore. Dark cherry hues. Dusty, forest floor, tobacco and prunes on the nose. Dry and mildly astringent as you sip. Mouth-filling and savoury with hints of truffles, tapenade, bitter chocolate and quince paste. Delizioso!

Wildwood – Winemakers Reserve Petit Verdot 2009 – up to $45 – ****

Sunbury, Victoria. This varietal is often blended with cabernet sauvignon in Bordeaux reds. Mid-crimson, violet edging. Aromatic smoky, blueberry bouquet. Beautifully balanced, mid-weighted red, jam-packed with youthful berries over silky tannins. Tasty moreish finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz 2008 – seen around $40 – ****

Deep ruby, shades of purple. Rich and spicy blackcurrant and blackberry nose with a hint of toasted oak. Solid and smooth as velvet in the mouth. Intensity of fruit dominates the flavour profile while fine tannins provide effortless structural support. The finish is lasting and displays typical Wynns’ fruit concentration.

Ratings

***** - outstanding

**** - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* - commercial

Price approximate in Australian dollars

De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Grigio 2009 – $14 – ** – Very pale with a green apple, sherbet-like nose. Clean, fresh, grapey flavours are enhanced by soft citric undertones and a mildly acidic finish.

Delatite Riesling 2009 – $23 – ***  – Upper Goulburn, Victoria. Light gold. A nose of lime blossom and lemon zest. A fuller flavoured riesling style showing citric fruit reminiscent of lemon meringue pie but without the sweetness. Finishes dry.

Angove Long Row Chardonnay 2009 – $10 – ** – New season apricots, fresh cream and a hint of oak on the nose. Softer style showing ripe stone fruits supported by well-seasoned barrel toastiness. Great value.

Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2008 – $45 – *** Translucent rosy hue. Nose shows raspberry, cherry and floral notes. Light-bodied and elegant in the mouth with nicely weighted, juicy summer pudding flavours that lead to a dryish, fruit-filled finish.

Hamiltons Bluff Sangiovese 2007 – $25 – **** – Canowindra, New South Wales. Blended with ‘a touch of merlot.’ Mid-red with dark cherry edges. Dry leaves and warm spiciness dominate the bouquet. Dry in the mouth, showing tight yet non-aggressive tannic astringency. Palate offers firm, savoury and secondary winey flavours and finishes with well-honed acidity. A class act.

Kopparossa Cabernet Merlot 2006 – $23-ish – *** – Coonawarra, South Australia. Mid-crimson. Plummy blueberry nose. Rich and mouth-filling – a hint of blackcurrant conserve over a background of sweet vanillin oak.

Fox Creek McLaren Vale Reserve Merlot 2008 – up to $41 – **** – Red to purple hues. Blackberry and chocolate gateau nose. A solid red, packed with ripe berries and typical McLaren Vale mocha enrichment. Initially seems soft and velvety in the mouth and then structural, lasting tannins creep up on you as you reach for another glass.

Ratings

***** - outstanding

****  - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good drinking

* - commercial

Prices in Australian Dollars.