Scarborough Semillon 2011 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Pokolbin, New South Wales. Aromatic nose of hay and young melon along with a hint of lemon oil. Dry, tangy, citric palate with a lip-smacking finish. Fine aperitif. .

Frogmore Creek Fumé Blanc 2011 – $28 ˜˜˜- ***. Tasmanian sauvignon blanc. Herbal-edged nose with a hint of tomato leaf and passionfruit, underscored by biscuity notes from new and aged French oak. The palate is fresh and very dry with a good length of flavour leading to a tangy, sherbert-like finish.

Hugh Hamilton The Floozie Sangiovese Rosé 2011 – $22.50 ˜˜- **. McLaren Vale, South Australia. Pale rosy pink. Sweet fruit nose hinting at new season cherries. Lively palate shows summer berries and finishes just off-dry. Try with a picnic lunch by the river.

Campbells Sparkling Shiraz – $30 ˜˜˜- ***. Rutherglen, Victoria. Foamy purple to black in the glass. Lovely blackberry nose. Full on palate of dark berries and dark chocolate that finishes firm enough to accompany a Christmas roast.

Cooks Lot Pinot Noir 2009 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Mudgee and Orange, New South Wales. Hues of cherry skin in the glass. Strawberries and light smoky notes on the nose. The strawberry character continues on the palate above a sub-structure of integrated tannins – these lead to a dry and persistent finish.

Raidis Estate Billy Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon $23 ˜˜˜- ***. Dense crimson hues. True varietal notes of black currant on the nose along with a hint of smoky oak. The palate reminds me of those black currant pastilles you used to get, the intensity not the sweetness that is. Tannins are nicely incorporated and the wine leaves an overall impression of smoothness.

Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2008 – $25 ˜˜˜˜- ****. Bendigo, Victoria. Black with a purple edge in the glass. Dusty nose with notes of Black Forest cake and a suggestion of liquorice allsorts. A complex and substantial wine in the mouth with an attack of assertive yet integrated tannins supporting flavours of blackberry conserve, cocoa powder, allspice and leather.

Yanjing Beer – about $3 per stubbie. From Beijing, China. Made from malted barley, hops, spring water and rice. Full strength – 4.5% alcohol. A light refreshing style with nice hoppy aromatics. The palate has sweet edges with a background of malt and finishes with mild hops bitterness.

Two Elk Apple Cider – 330ml 4-pack $16. Sweden, 4.5% alcohol. For some reason this made me think of elks acting out the old two dogs joke. A delicate light style. Pleasant autumnal apple aromatics with a palate that will suit drinkers who like cider at the sweeter end of the spectrum.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – fine drinking

*˜ – commercial

Lock & Key Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $15 – ˜˜**. Orange, New South Wales. Light in the glass, edge of green. Sauvignon style at the tropical rather than herbal end of the spectrum. Generous fruit salad nose. Soft and full in the mouth, with hints of pineapple and lychee. Medium dry to finish.

Alta Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2011 – $20 – ˜˜˜***. Almost water pale. Limes and white blossoms permeate the bouquet. Clean, dry style with lovely citrus-oriented flavours and an edge of sherbert like tang to close.

Toolangi Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2009 – RRP $25 – ˜˜**. Bright light straw hues. White peach and apricot on the nose, along with a touch of toasted French oak. More stone fruit in the mouth and dried apples, all nicely balanced with biscuity wood and just enough acid to carry to an off-dry finish.

Bouldevines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 – $32.50 – ***˜˜˜. New Zealand. Medium crimson shades. Dark cherries and raspberries on a savoury-edged nose. Full-on style with soft tannins and a load of ripe, summer berries. The dry and firm finish counterbalances the fruity lusciousness.

Echelon Petit Verdot 2008 – $28 – ˜˜˜***. Mid-ruby. Nose of blueberries and blood plums with light oaky vanilla. Solid berry characters on the palate combine with mildly assertive tannins and synthesise into a satisfyingly chewy mouthfeel.

Rutherglen Estates Durif 2007 – $40 – ˜˜˜˜****. Dense to opaque ruby-red. Warm, almost porty nose. Lip-smacking, chewy tannins lead off in this robust and complex red. It’s a heady melange of plums, blackberries, pencil shavings, anise, mocha, leather, and alcohol. Not for the faint of heart. Serve with a substantial main course and plan for an after dinner nap.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2010 – Up to $15 – ˜˜˜***. Mid-red, purple hues. Blackberries and unassuming oak invite further nosing. Good fruit intensity in the mouth: if you can imagine a non-cloying sauce composed of 85% chocolate infused with blackberry syrup you might be there.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale $4.50 and more the stubbie. ˜˜˜- ***. This is the best US beer I’ve tasted in a long time. A bottle-conditioned (yeast in bottle), full-strength beer (5.6% alcohol) from California. The brew is packed with flavour, slight malt, lovely fragrant hops and a long smooth satisfying palate. It’s up there with my favourite Australian beer, Coopers Sparkling Ale.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Cold Pressed means grapes were frozen and cold pressed at -18C. Light straw. Sweet nose of ripe apricots, pears and Seville marmalade. Palate is light and elegant with sweet fruitiness balanced by lemon zest acidity. Excellent dessert wine. NB I read the back label after tasting this wine and was surprised to find similar comments.

Reillys Riesling 2010 – $18 – AA+

Watervale, Clare Valley, South Australia. Near water pale, light green hue. Fresh sherbert and lime blossom nose. Dry, full, lip smacking, lemon / lime juiciness. Beautifully integrated acidity at the finish.

Thistle Hill Preservative Free Chardonnay 2011 – $22 – AA

Mudgee, New South Wales. No sulphur dioxide added. Very pale in the glass. Nose of white peaches with a hint of lemon zest. Soft rich palate shows dried pears with a hint of tropical fruits.

De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 – Seen for $24 – AA+

Light gold. Perfumey nose of apricot conserve and lightly toasted oak. Generous fruit on the palate is reminiscent of new season stone fruits, while the oak is nicely expressive rather than assertive. Try with a creamy pasta main course.

Houghton Stripe Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2010 – $15 – A+

Western Australia. Crimson in colour. Fruity nose, reminiscent of maraschino cherries. Medium-weighted in the mouth with more of the cherry fruit showing and light tannic astringency. Easy drinking with a pleasing dry finish. Good with main course food.

AC/DC Highway to Hell Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $16 and more – AA

Medium ruby, edge of purple. Dusty, wine gum nose. Dry and medium bodied showing aspects of blackcurrants and blueberries over fairly assertive tannins. Try with well-seasoned main course tucker.

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2008 – $18 – AA

Dark crimson hues. Plums and maybe a hint of chocolate on the nose. Solid red of velvety texture shows plenty of ripe summer berry fruit along with sweet vanillin oak.

Maximus Cadenzia 2009 – $25 – AAA

Mc Laren Vale, South Australia. Grenache 50%, Shiraz 35%, Mourvedre 15%. Dark ruby. Inviting nose of forest fruits and oaky sweet vanilla. Silky texture, buckets of ripe berries in the mouth and a long delicious finish. Good value for money. Hand me another bottle.

Bress Brut Cider – $20 (750ml) – AA

Harcourt, Victoria. 80% cider apples, 20% pears, six months on lees. Pale gold, light bead. Juicy green apple peel nose and a hint of pear juice. Smooth and creamy on the palate with a tad of brioche-like yeastiness. Goes down very easily with a just off-dry finish.

Holey Dollar Premium Rum – around $40

Fiji. Pot still, three years small oak maturation, 40% alcohol. Light sherry hues. Nose of light molasses leavened with a hint of vanilla and maybe a touch of lemon peel. Smooth sweet palate with edges of caramel, vanilla and aged oak. A good sipper on the rocks and a top mixer.

Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale 2011 – $5 (375 ml) – AAA

Top fermented, bottle conditioned ale. Foamy with light toffee hues. Fruity notes on the nose are moderated by hop aromatics. Creamy mouth feel exhibits delicious maltiness, a suggestion of mocha and balancing hoppy bitterness at the finish.

Ratings

AAA+ – extraordinary

AAA – outstanding

AA+ – classy

AA – first-rate

A+ – good stuff

A – commercial

Prices – Australian dollars

A French blend of dark rum from the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Réunion. Light tea hues. Aromatic nose, molasses predominant. A smooth, medium-weighted style; not as medicinal as some dark rums. Well suited to mixin’ rather than sippin’ straight.

d’Arenberg The Noble Botrytotinia F*ckeliana 2010 – $20 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale, South Australia; Semillon / sauvignon blanc blend; 8% alcohol. Sounds more like something itchy you’d go to the clinic for than a sweet white wine. Bright gold. Nose of passionfruit and zest of Seville oranges. Palate is smooth and viscous, laden with flavours of marmalade and rich apricot sauce. At first it tastes indulgently sweet but any hint of cloying is offset by upfront citric acidity. (Re net censors – insert *U above.)

Delatite Dead Man’s Hill Gewurtztraminer 2010 – $25 – ˜˜˜***

Bright, light and pale to the eye. Limes and faint musk and Turkish Delight in the bouquet. Smooth in texture, mouth filling with apple pie and rose water and mild acidity to finish.

Leasingham Bin 7 Clare Valley Riesling 2010- $23 – ˜˜˜***

Light straw. Dried pears, Granny Smith apples and lemon zest on the nose. Lemony, sherbert-like flavours dominate the palate, balancing nicely with a citric tang at the finish.

Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – $29 – ˜˜˜***

Almost water pale. Pungent tomato bush, black currant leaf and lychee nose. Light and bright in the mouth with more leafiness, grassiness and grapefruit notes. Medium acidity to finish.

Lindeman’s Bin 0905 Padthaway Nyrang Shiraz 2009 – $12.90 – **˜˜

Dark crimson, slight purple on the edge. Inviting ripe blackberry conserve on the nose. A dry and medium-weighted palate displays wild berries underpinned by a hint of black olives and savoury smokiness. Finishes firm. Excellent value.

Andrew Garrett Sparkling Shiraz NV – seen for $11 to $14 – ˜˜**

Purplish foam when poured. Ripe plums and dark cherries on the nose. A medium weighted, off-dry sparkler with flavours suggesting Cherry Ripe and Cassis.

Tarrawarra Estate K-Block Merlot 2009 – $35 – ˜˜˜***

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Mid ruby. The nose shows subdued, musky mulberry fruit and tight French oak. In the mouth, rich berry essences and a shade of mint combine with silky tannins and subtle use of barrel fermentation to present an integrated whole.

Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009- $40 – ****˜˜˜˜

Deep red with faint violet hues. Summer pudding nose with a hint of toasted oak. Dry, full and fruity in the mouth with somewhat assertive tannins that will soften nicely with a little bottle age. One to cellar for five years or so or to serve now with substantial main courses.

Fox Creek JSM 2008 – $22.50 – ˜˜˜***

McLaren Vale, South Australia. A blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Dark red to black. Generous plumminess, dark cherries and a hint of dusty oak on the nose. Warm and generous in the mouth where softish tannins support successive layers of ripe berries. Finish is long and moreish.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

˜˜** – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

A chardonnay and pinot noir blend from the house of Martel. Pale gold in colour with the slightest pink tinge; flowers and subtle notes of brioche on the nose. A fuller style, with apricot and dried apple flavours in the mouth along with a hint of citrus. Opens with fruit sweetness and firms up towards the finish.

Hollick Coonawarra Savagnin 2010 – $21 – ˜˜**

Juicy, fresh nose. Zesty, tangy palate with hints of lime and sherbet. Dryish flavoursome finish. Good entrée style.

The Lane Block 2 Pinot Gris 2010 – $30 – ˜˜˜***

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Perfumey spicy nose. Rich, mouth filling style with bags of apple and pear fruit over soft acidity.

Amberley Kiss & Tell Moscato Rosa NV – $15 – ˜˜**

Rosy pink. Raisiny Turkish Delight notes on the nose. Sweetish palate in this light (only 7% alcohol) style. Slight spritzig on the tongue.

Elmswood Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 – $45 – ˜˜˜˜****

Light ruby hues in the glass. Generous strawberry, smoky oak and savoury notes on the nose. Cherries and strawberries lead a dryish, slightly tannic palate in a well constructed take on this difficult varietal.

Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2010 – $40 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Shades of dark cherry to the eye. Powerful, ripe strawberry and maraschino conserves on the nose. A beautifully textured, almost chewy approach. It bursts in the mouth with berry ripeness over well-seasoned oak. One of the few pinots I’ve tasted that would convince welded on shiraz and cabernet drinkers to convert to the Burgundian grape.

Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Merlot 2006 – $40 – **** ˜˜˜˜

Deep crimson. Aromatic dark berries and a hint of anise on the nose. Smooth, silky tannic structure. Concentrated redcurrants and blueberries blend well with vanillin French oak and lead to a firm, lip-smacking finish.

Ratings

*****˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Yering Station Yarra Valley Fumé Blanc 2010 – $26 – ˜˜***  - Barrel fermented sauvignon blanc. In this wine, barrel-fermentation has softened much of the herbaceous pungency we expect in unwooded versions. Nevertheless there is still a hint of edgy tomato leaf over the faint woody overtones on the nose. The palate is full and rich and interwoven with sherbet-like acidity.

d’Arenberg McLaren Vale The Dry Dam Riesling 2010 – $15 – ˜˜˜*** Ripe lemon, new season pear and some floral notes on the nose. A generous mouth filling style permeated with lemon and lime intensity. There is a hint of apple pie at the finish. Good aperitif or entrée wine.

Barambah Classic 2010 – $19 – ** – S˜˜outh Burnett, Queensland. A blend of semillon, verdelho and sauvignon blanc. Pale straw hues. Attractive tropical fruit salad nose. Clean and dry in the mouth with a fine edge of citric tang at the finish.

Edenvale Shiraz – Alcohol removed – around $7 – ˜*  - Less than .5 % alcohol, If you’re off the booze this might serve as an alternative. Mid ruby in colour. Sweet plums on the nose. Slightly sweet in the mouth. Light tannic texture underlines Ribena-like aspects.

Invivo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009 – $32 – ˜˜˜˜**** – The colour is light crimson with cherry skin hues. The nose shows strawberry conserve along with savoury smokiness and pencil shavings. Savoury character continues on the palate with aspects of maraschino cherry and strawberry tart. It finishes dry.

Kingston Estate Petit Verdot 2009 – $14 – ˜˜** – Dark red. Ripe plummy nose. A robust style with stacks of fruit over a sub-structure of integrated tannins. Just right for main course dishes. Unquestionable value for money.

Miles from Nowhere Best Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $27 – ˜˜˜˜**** – Margaret River, Western Australia. Cedar chest and blueberries on the nose. The soft yet lengthy palate is reminiscent of tobacco leaf and black currant liqueur. Tight, lip smacking, tannic astringency supports the whole.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Nepenthe Pinot Gris 2010 – $19 - **- Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pale, hint of green. Subdued sherbet-like bouquet. Fruity ripe citrus in the mouth. Soft acidity to finish.

Summerhouse Chardonnay 2007 – up to $35 - *** – Marlborough, New Zealand. Mid-golden hues. Apricot conserve, toast, and white flowers on the nose. New season peaches and apricots on the palate with a firm infrastructure of barrel fermentation and firm acidity to finish.

De Bortoli La Bohème Act Two Dry Pinot Noir Rosé 2010 – $18 - **** – Yarra Valley, Victoria. Palest candy pink hues. Sweet strawberries and raspberries on the nose. Lovely dry palate with plenty of summer berries and a delightfully firm finish. Best rosé I’ve tasted this year.

Bellvale Pinot Noir 2007 – $35 – *** – Gippsland, Victoria. Dark cherry hues. Lifted nose of cherries, a hint of smokiness and strawberry tart. Well-fruited style with a hint of maraschino cherry and mid-dry tannins on the palate.

Peter Lehmann Clancy’s 2008 – $13 – ** – Barossa Valley, South Australia. Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot blend. Mid-crimson in colour. Nose of ripe blackberries and blood plums. A style of generous, smooth-textured red which typifies Barossa Valley offerings.

Thistle Hill Shiraz 2010 – $20 – *** – Mudgee, New South Wales. Preservative free. Dark ruby in colour. There is an appealing “thickness” about the nose of this along with mature fruit and hints of coffee and possibly aniseed. Well textured with grippy tannins along with top notes of mature fruit interwoven with earthy bush track character.

Zema Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2007 – $25 – **** – Dark crimson, purple edges. Aromatic bouquet of dark berries. Solid offering of mouth-filling fruit combined with slightly chewy texture. A firm, forceful aftertaste demands the accompaniment of main course dishes. Cellar to 2015.

Ratings

***** – outstanding

**** - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Gingin, Swan Valley and Pemberton, Western Australia. Pale straw. Bright aromas of tropical fruit salad. Medium weighted juicy palate continues with young pineapple and paw paw along with soft acidity.

Mount Langhi Ghiran Cliff Edge Riesling 2009 – up to $25 – **

Western Victoria. Pale with light green edge. Lemon zesty nose. Fresh lime, Granny Smith apples and dried pear on the palate lead to a slightly off-dry finish.

Chandon Vintage Brut 2007 – up to $40 – ****

Multi-region. Chardonnay – 54% and pinot noir – 46%. Golden hues, vigorous bead. Nose of just-baked Tarte Tatin and Apricot Danish. Mellow, rich mouthfeel. A complexity of well-integrated flavours includes apricot conserve, crusty baguette and delicate lime marmalade. The finish is long and satisfying and is supported by medium acidity.

Yering Station MVR 2008 – up to $25 – ***

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Blend of marsanne, viognier, roussanne. Light gold. Bouquet of honeysuckle and white blossoms. Velvety palate has hints of lemon butter, honeycomb and toasted almonds. Dry and full as you swallow.

Cab Mac Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 – $20 – ***

The name is based on the late Stephen Hickinbotham’s brilliant development of the traditional carbonic maceration method. Medium ruby. Lifted nose of Kirsch and raspberry conserve. Soft, attractive, fruity palate of ripe summer berries with enough mild tannins to add structure. A fine accompaniment, served cooled, for a spring picnic.

Scrimaglio Rocca Nivo Barbera D’Asti – high $30s – ****

Region: Nizza Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy. Denominazione Di Origine Controllata Superiore. Dark cherry hues. Dusty, forest floor, tobacco and prunes on the nose. Dry and mildly astringent as you sip. Mouth-filling and savoury with hints of truffles, tapenade, bitter chocolate and quince paste. Delizioso!

Wildwood – Winemakers Reserve Petit Verdot 2009 – up to $45 – ****

Sunbury, Victoria. This varietal is often blended with cabernet sauvignon in Bordeaux reds. Mid-crimson, violet edging. Aromatic smoky, blueberry bouquet. Beautifully balanced, mid-weighted red, jam-packed with youthful berries over silky tannins. Tasty moreish finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz 2008 – seen around $40 – ****

Deep ruby, shades of purple. Rich and spicy blackcurrant and blackberry nose with a hint of toasted oak. Solid and smooth as velvet in the mouth. Intensity of fruit dominates the flavour profile while fine tannins provide effortless structural support. The finish is lasting and displays typical Wynns’ fruit concentration.

Ratings

***** - outstanding

**** - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* - commercial

Price approximate in Australian dollars

De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Grigio 2009 – $14 – ** – Very pale with a green apple, sherbet-like nose. Clean, fresh, grapey flavours are enhanced by soft citric undertones and a mildly acidic finish.

Delatite Riesling 2009 – $23 – ***  – Upper Goulburn, Victoria. Light gold. A nose of lime blossom and lemon zest. A fuller flavoured riesling style showing citric fruit reminiscent of lemon meringue pie but without the sweetness. Finishes dry.

Angove Long Row Chardonnay 2009 – $10 – ** – New season apricots, fresh cream and a hint of oak on the nose. Softer style showing ripe stone fruits supported by well-seasoned barrel toastiness. Great value.

Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2008 – $45 – *** Translucent rosy hue. Nose shows raspberry, cherry and floral notes. Light-bodied and elegant in the mouth with nicely weighted, juicy summer pudding flavours that lead to a dryish, fruit-filled finish.

Hamiltons Bluff Sangiovese 2007 – $25 – **** – Canowindra, New South Wales. Blended with ‘a touch of merlot.’ Mid-red with dark cherry edges. Dry leaves and warm spiciness dominate the bouquet. Dry in the mouth, showing tight yet non-aggressive tannic astringency. Palate offers firm, savoury and secondary winey flavours and finishes with well-honed acidity. A class act.

Kopparossa Cabernet Merlot 2006 – $23-ish – *** – Coonawarra, South Australia. Mid-crimson. Plummy blueberry nose. Rich and mouth-filling – a hint of blackcurrant conserve over a background of sweet vanillin oak.

Fox Creek McLaren Vale Reserve Merlot 2008 – up to $41 – **** – Red to purple hues. Blackberry and chocolate gateau nose. A solid red, packed with ripe berries and typical McLaren Vale mocha enrichment. Initially seems soft and velvety in the mouth and then structural, lasting tannins creep up on you as you reach for another glass.

Ratings

***** - outstanding

****  - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good drinking

* - commercial

Prices in Australian Dollars.

Yellowglen Bella Bianco 2009 – up to $20 – ** – Low (8%) alcohol bubbly. A blend of white frontignac and riesling. Bouquet of ripe pears and apricots. Notably sweet palate continues the fruity pear theme with maybe a hint of oranges and lemons at the finish. Pleasant luncheon or picnic style.

Patina Sticky Tea Riesling 2009 – 375ml – up to $22 – ** – Orange New South Wales. Low (7.6%) alcohol. Yes, it does have a pleasant fragrance not unlike a cup of iced lemon tea. Medium sweet at the front of the palate but dries off nicely at the finish with some citrus undertones.

Kreglinger Estate Brut de Blancs 2003 – up to $65 – **** – Tasmania. Chardonnay, disgorged mid-2009. Vigorous bead, pale straw hues. Lime blossoms and toasted cashews on the nose. Seven years since vintage yet still fresh and youthful on the palate. Dry and steely style with flavours of Granny Smith tarte tatin and zested lime peel acidity to finish.

Baritone Maxim Cabernet Shiraz 2008 – 1 litre – up to $13 – ** – Limestone Coast, South Australia. Solid, juicy red, packed with ripe fruit. Palate is warm (14.5% alcohol) and generous with medium tannins and a firm food-suiting finish. Excellent value for money.

James Oatley Tic Tok Shiraz 2008 – up to $18 – *** – Shiraz from Frankland River, Western Australia; Mudgee, New South Wales; McLaren Vale, South Australia. Vibrant purple edge in the glass. Upfront nose of blackberries and lightly toasted oak. Soft and rich in the mouth showing blackberry tart and a sub-structure of mocha.

Barwang Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – up to $20 – *** – Hilltops region, New South Wales. Dense purple hues. Inviting, lifted bouquet, reminiscent of cassis and blackcurrant conserve. Dry, tightly structured, cool climate, berry-packed palate supported by assertive tannins. Intense and lasting finish. Cellar to 2015.

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2006 – up to $90 – ***** – Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Limestone Coast, South Australia. Shiraz 89%, cabernet sauvignon 11%. The product notes remind us that unlike other premium reds, St Henri does not use any new oak and maturation is in old 1460 litre vats. Near opaque, deep crimson. The complex nose is savoury rather than sweet and shows notes of summer berries, mint, just raked autumn leaves and leather. The palate displays hints of blood plums, mulberries and espresso coffee. Well-integrated tannins are chewy and sinewy while the finish is long, dry and firm, with lingering notes of almost bitter dark chocolate. Cellar to 2025.

Ratings

***** - outstanding 

**** – classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* - commercial

Prices in Australian dollars.