Tomaž (Tomi for friends) Kavčič is the fourth generation of a family of restaurateurs. His mother Katja is the living icon of Slovenian gastronomy. She was the one who introduced Slow Food to Slovenian and Italian guests long time before the movement was “invented” in Bra by Carlo Petrini! Her mother (Tomi’s grandmother) followed the family tradition before WW2, by joining the nun’s cooking school in a monastery nearby. Her diploma work was to create a six dish menu which contained local dishes. This kind of culinary experience was strongly represented at restaurant Pri Lojzetu, which until ten years ago was situated at the family house in the village of Dornberk, in the middle of the Vipava valley. Following this heritage Katja began working with fresh local materials and seasonal dishes that she adjusted to modern times. Even during communism (Slovenia was part of Yugoslavia and gained it’s independence in 1991) they were lucky. Tito’s communists were not as harsh as their ideological comrades behind the Iron Curtain, you could have your own company, it was allowed, it had to be small, but it was allowed. And this was crucial for small traditional businesses like restaurateurs, winegrowers… it was the most important thing for the survival of traditional Slovenian cuisine. Therefore it is not surprising that the first official Slow Food dinner in Slovenia was held in December 1995 at the restaurant Pri Lojzetu, it was totally obvious and logical.

Now at the Zemono castle you can taste family tradition and the traditions of the Vipava valley. After a refreshing sparkling wine from the indigenous grape variety Zelen, we started with a small cup of fresh white truffles and mashed potatoes. The second surprise came at the table – a smoky glass with “something” in the bottom. Thin sliced mushrooms, very rare and special – the Slovenians call them “Karzlji”, the Italians call them “ovoli” and the French “oronges”, these are called Caesar’s mushroom in English, they are probably one of the most delicious edible mushrooms, the species is a member of the Amanita family (which also includes the some deadly species like the “death cap”). The Caesar’s mushrooms, seasoned with a drop of olive oil (indigenous; of course – from a typical variety from the coastal region called Belica – the tree itself can survive temperatures 5°C lower than other olive trees in Mediterranean basin) and smoke from the vine wood embers, were more than an appetizer.

Than came the first “official” dish – the traditional appetizer of the Kavčič family – fresh baked bread with cream of horseradish. The family had given this dish an almost biblical value – bread and wine. And yes – the wine: Pinela 2006 by local producer Stekar. Pinela is also an indigenous grape variety found only in Vipava valley. This is a fresh, clear mineral wine with elegant body. As a first wine, it is also very, very drinkable.

On we go, Tomi is on the move! The next wine is called Burja( Bora wind). In winter Burja is a kind of nuisance in the Vipava valley, it can blow at almost 200 km/h! That’s why the roofs are made with strong bricks covered with stones! Primož Lavrenčič from the Sutor winery has made an excellent cuvee, named after this strong wind. The blend of Malvasia, Rebula (local varieties) and Italian (Welsch) Riesling is powerful on the nose (exotic fruits, pears and lemon), fresh and has a nice body. The aftertaste is creamy and long.

Then came the “force majeure”. Sea bass on “grilled salt”. In fact the grilled salt is the invention which catapulted Tomi Kavčič to a reputation comparable with the most influential and popular chefs in Europe! Tomi was always intrigued by clear and natural tastes. He wanted to prepare fish so it was as fresh baked as when it was raw. The idea came from the salt marshes of Piran on the Slovenian coast. They produce excellent fleur de sel (the top thin layer of salt, with bigger crystals and a less aggressive taste). He prepares a “tea” made of herbs and spices and he sprays the salt with this tea while heating it under a grill. The salt becomes firmer and by the time it reaches 180°C it is a block of spiced salt! A chunk of this hot salt “brick” is served on the plate, and pieces of raw cleaned fillet of sea bass are placed on it. After only one minute, the fillets are removed and placed over thin sliced zucchini with a julienne of fennel and apples. The joy of pure taste is in this dish, it is a masterpiece!

Tomi Kavčič didn’t study to be a chef. He is a mechanical engineer and a former rally driver! Later he switched from the smell of gasoline to the aromas of truffles and wine. Even now, gaining so many medals and honors and serving prestigious guests, he doesn‘t consider himself a chef. “I am a restaurateur, a communicator. I have to be outside the kitchen to connect with guests, to talk to them, to explain my culinary philosophy.” But he is also a great researcher, he’s been all around the world and many renowned chefs are his good friends. “I don’t copy. I just go look for ideas that I can reinterpret with dishes from the Vipava valley, that ‘s all.” A few years ago he was “suckered” into molecular cuisine. But he came back very quickly, he’d experiences top cuisine, the Everest of gastronomy, and after learning almost all the tricks and techniques he went back to his valley very calmly.

One trick that he learned from Ferran Adrià surfaced in the next dish – “Diet foie gras”. Usually this dish is heavy and if the portion is large one can feel full right at the start of a classic French lunch or dinner. But here Tomi had “washed” the foie gras in sparkling wine, removing the fat and adding dry fruit instead.

No great meal is complete without soup. We had a creamy mouthwatering bean soup with the last of the season’s fresh tomatoes and soft octopus. The elegance and softness was overwhelming.

Aleš Kristančič is the “star” of Slovenian winemaking. His Movia estate is highly acclaimed and the most influential people in the wine business know him. He has a charismatic personality, he’s an excellent speaker and a master in discussing wine. Of course he knows what he’s talking about, because his cellar produces excellent products. One of his top wines is Veliko Belo (Great white), a cuvee of Rebula, Sauvignon and Pinot Gris matured in new oak barrels for four years (!). Vintage 2002 was voted by US magazine Wine and Spirits one of the 50 top white wines in the world! Tomi poured us this delicacy from a double magnum. The complex nose (melon, peppers, tropical fruits, grass and vanilla) leads to a balanced harmony in the mouth,with elegance and fresh minerality. By the way – Ales Movia is a star in the US, especially in NY (top Manhattan restaurants) and California!

My favorite dish was the carbonara, not an ordinary one, this is another of Tomi’s limitless ideas, with scampi in a heavenly sauce whose main ingredients are the crushed shells of tiny crabs and scampi. Of course, the basis is home made spaghetti with a gentle touch of fresh crunchy zucchini.

Just as we thought that things couldn’t get any better, the progression continued. One of Slovenia‘s best Pinot Noir by Marjan Simčič had been served. The 2005 vintage has the typical burgundy red onion color and nose is very rich: forest fruits, intense cassis with the aroma of black pepper. It has full and strong body. Great wine!

The next dish was basic and simple – duck baked in its sauce on slice of baked white polenta. The charm of this dish is the softness of the meat, the crunchiness of polenta and freshness from a sauce of berries and peppers!

And last but not at least – three desserts, presented in make-up cases. Vanilla ice with sage was the absolute winner between three strong players. None of us had ever imagined eating something like this. It was like entering a new world. Chestnut cream with persimmon is a typical autumn dish of this region which is usually accompanied by fresh grape must. And pumpkin cream with liquid black chocolate was the last one.

In order to taste so many excellent dishes and wines you have to be prepared. But even so – in the end our senses were tired. Tomi knew that, that’s why he saved Puro 2000 for the end. Puro (pure…) is one of Movia’s masterpieces, a méthode traditionnelle sparkler (only Pinot Noir) that has never been disgorged. This means all the sediments are still under the cork. Movia invented a special system to open the bottle and keep the wine clear of the lees… The bottle must be kept at all times upside-down, even in transport, so that the lees accumulate in the neck near the cork. Tomi sticks the bottle upside down in a big wine bucket full of water. He opens the cork under water and quickly pulls the bottle out and straightens it. All the sediment and some wine has been ejected into the bucket, while the clear wine is poured into the glasses. This is the final revelation – the pure taste of wine without any additives or expedition liqueurs. It refreshes, clears the mouth and it has the power of a young elegant athlete. We are now all awake again, full of energy and ready to go home.

Tomaž Sršen,
Wine and culinary writer from Slovenia, sommelier and Slow Food convivium leader

I am not sure if going to a place twice qualifies one as a “regular”, but that is certainly the way I felt when the Čarman family greeted us at the door. The new sommelier, Gregor, took care of us expertly as we navigated through the excellent gastronomic menu, theoretically a 5 course meal, but in fact three extra smaller dishes complete this generous panorama of traditional Slovenian cooking reinterpreted in a contemporary key. Of course, each dish is accompanied by a glass of Slovenian wine.

We began with a red Teran sparkling wine by Jazbec made from Refosco grapes in the Karst area, quite surprising to have a sparkler with cherry aroma, well balanced.

The first appetizer is a duet of rolled zucchini and trout well matched to a 2004 Malvazija by Korenika-Moškon, from the Istrian coast, the wine has a lot of character and rounds of the strong flavours of the delicious trout.

Next is nettle soup in a bread cup, and of course you could eat the cup if you wanted to (and had the room for it). No wine is recommended but the Malvazija keeps performing well.

As I already know this dish, the loška mešta (polenta) with black truffles is served to my friends, while I have the asparagus and spinach gnocchi. Gregor suggests we drink a 2003 Chardonnay from the Vipava valley by one of my favourite winemakers, Mlečnik, who likes to make whites the old way, macerated on the skins, almost letting the wine make itself but never letting it get out of control, a tannic white of the kind that I have been calling “noir de blancs” for the last few years, with rich light amber colour and nice apple flavours.

An elderberry sorbet with lemon zest is served to prepare us for the main dish, a beef slice with a young goat cheese sauce and thyme and vegetable mashed potatoes. I did remark to Gregor that I would have preferred to have the cheese on the side, however that is my own personal dislike of sauces on meats, and most people, especially here in France, would disagree with me. The cheese reminded me of the light fresh “tome” of provence prepared in the ancient way, with rennet as opposed to the industrial lactic method. Very good with a 2003 cabernet sauvignon Selekcija by Marjan Simčič matured in new oak in the Goriška Brda wine area.

The dessert was exceptional, one of those trendy chocolate desserts that do not cook through and through and release their hot melted chocolate interior on first attacking them, yet the whole thing here was covered in toasted pumpkin seeds, and right next to it I discovered a parfait made with pumpkin seed oil, a very strong tasty specialty of the Styrian area of Slovenia. A glass of porto forms the classic match with the chocolate.

As we finish our meal, Gašper Čarman dropped in to say hello. Since he started his online wine business evino two years ago the business has boomed and he can no longer spend as much time managing his parents’ wine cellar, but he does show up regularly.

If your travel brings you to Slovenia you should not miss Vesna and Dušan Čarman’s restaurant, the food and wines are excellent and the service highly competent. Thanks again!

I had met the Carman family (Vesna and Dušan, and their son Gašper) two years ago, when Tomaz had organised a Slovenian dinner in London with Wendy Fogarty of Slow Food UK, the Carmans did the cooking and two winemakers presented some top Slovenian wines.

This place redefines hospitality, after winding through a snowy landscape one enters the warmth of this friendly inn, with its honest cuisine, rooted in tradition yet innovative, the son Gašper takes care of matching every dish with a different wine. Yet this is just an inn! There are few star restaurants in France this ambitious.

The level of Slovenian wines is impressive, in these fresh terroirs at the foothills of the Alps one finds deep complex fresh natural wines, made by subtle winemakers with a light touch. The whites are most remarkable, benefiting from a range of top quality local grape varieties. They are similar to the wines of Friuli (the only serious region for whites in Italy) but not over-oaked or overworked technologically as so many of today’s Italian wines. It is evident that Slovene winemakers are in close contact with the “revolutionaries” from Friuli, one finds in these wines the philosophy of their Italian genius neighbours Stanko Radikon and Josko Gravner (or is it the Slovenes who are influencing the Friulani?).

In this beautiful country just separated out of Yugoslavia and having already almost caught up with the European standard of living, the national anthem is a traditional wine-drinking song. Slovenia has definitely found a place among the nations of good wine.

For starters we had a Bjana sparkler, a méthode classique from pinot noir I believe, wines made from a 3 ha property with low yield vines from the fresh climate of Brda, with superb acidity and discrete fine bubbles with lots of elegance.

To accompany a plate of thin slices of ox tongue on a bed of cabbage, we were served a Rebula 2003 by Valter Sirk, also from the Goriška Brda appellation area. Rebula is called Ribolla across the border in Italy (and it may be the same as Robola in Greece). This grape produces wines with a fruity concentration that enhance the sweet-sour taste of this delicate cabbage, adding a citrusy note.

The discussion veers towards grape varietal issues, and on the situation of the Tokaj grape name (Tocai in Friuli), since the law is forcing the elimination by 2007 of the name Tokaj in Friuli and Alsace in order to protect the hungarian wine “Tokaji”. I had heard the new name was going to be “Friulano”, but Gašper now shows us the provocative solution envisaged by Radikon, who named his 2002 “Jacot” (Tokaj spelt backwards). Our next wine is a Tokaj 2002 by the excellent Edi Simčič. I had met Alex Simčič in London, that evening he introduced himself by saying that he believes that a winemaker should linit his role to accompanying nature, to making sure that all goes well in the vines and in the cellar, because it would be a shame to spoil the product of a good terroir by intervening with a heavy hand. His wine is proof of the soundness of this philosophy, the Tokaj is intense, with evident perfume of roses and lychees, superbly balanced and very fine. It does a great job with a barley soup served in a bowl bade of bread, you can eat the howl thing, with its fine spices (bacon, cloves, carrots). This place makes its own bread, in fact several varieties, including a traditional bread made from flour and potatoes, something that used to be made once a week and that kept fresh for days.

I was just sitting hoping that we would taste something from my other favourite Slovene winemaker, Valter Mlečnik, and sure enough a Rebula 2001 is served to accompany trout served on a bed of Swiss chard. Slovenia is truly paradise for white wine lovers. This spicy fruty Tokaj lets the delicate taste of the trout come through unspoilt, and somehow seems to match the sweet Swiss chard leaves. And yet these wines are all under 14€… Tomaz reminds me that the wine areas are only an hour’s drive from Venice; so that’s it, I am determined to make the trip in a few weeks and fill the trunk of my car.

A change of colour, a red Bordeaux-inspired Duet of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot by Edi Simčič is decanted in order to prepare it for beef filet accompanied by a purée of leeks and potatoes and a slice of štruklji, a roll of fine dough with ewe’s cheese. The Duet is finely and reasonably oaked, complex, very elegant, it costs 18€ and it is better than many super-tuscans that cost 10 times as much, it is airy and has none of the excess oak, delicious.

For dessert, a trio with a slice of chocolat cake with a mysterious spice that Vesna describes as “shaped like a banana but thin and black, grows on tress”… then a walnut parfait, and a sweet štruklji (is this a distant relative of strudel ?). All this accompanied by a sweet wine made from air-dried Malvazija grapes, a Kras 1998 by Renčel.

From my first six hours in Slovenia, I can only conclude that this is a country that knows about taste and hospitality. Thanks you Tomaz, Vesna, Dušan and Gašper.