Hi Martin. We are back from the land of oversized portions of mostly confused flavour combinations in dishes. God, have they put a whole new spin on traditional Italian dishes.

Oh well, we got back home and fell on a lamb and shiraz dinner, boy was that good, oh, and a cup of tea, a little luxury that they simply do not get.

I loved your vivid description of working in a restaurant, boy, did you nail it, and what a shame more people in our position don’t do it. I once heard a well known person who was of influence during the ‘80s and ‘90s describing to a novice how a restaurant kitchen worked.

She said that the chefs all stopped to work on one table. When I explained to her how wrong she was, she got herself into a real bind. I do not miss people like her at all.

As one person we met in America said – when talking about food writers, “What gives them the right to talk to us like we know nothing when they evidently know less, and talk down to us?”

I watched Rachael Ray (hottest food TV person in the USA) and co-host show us how to make a proper peanut butter, tomato and bacon sandwich – no wonder it doesn’t get any better.

We had two memorable meals in the five week holiday. One of them being the home cooked Christmas lunch by an old school mate of mine (we went to school together 53 years ago). Roasted whole organic turkey and the trimmings…wonderful.

PS What was startling in America was the diminished amount of Australian wines on shelves and wine lists – brand loyalty? And Californian wines…so expensive, but must say very good, by and large.

Scarborough Semillon 2011 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Pokolbin, New South Wales. Aromatic nose of hay and young melon along with a hint of lemon oil. Dry, tangy, citric palate with a lip-smacking finish. Fine aperitif. .

Frogmore Creek Fumé Blanc 2011 – $28 ˜˜˜- ***. Tasmanian sauvignon blanc. Herbal-edged nose with a hint of tomato leaf and passionfruit, underscored by biscuity notes from new and aged French oak. The palate is fresh and very dry with a good length of flavour leading to a tangy, sherbert-like finish.

Hugh Hamilton The Floozie Sangiovese Rosé 2011 – $22.50 ˜˜- **. McLaren Vale, South Australia. Pale rosy pink. Sweet fruit nose hinting at new season cherries. Lively palate shows summer berries and finishes just off-dry. Try with a picnic lunch by the river.

Campbells Sparkling Shiraz – $30 ˜˜˜- ***. Rutherglen, Victoria. Foamy purple to black in the glass. Lovely blackberry nose. Full on palate of dark berries and dark chocolate that finishes firm enough to accompany a Christmas roast.

Cooks Lot Pinot Noir 2009 – $20 ˜˜˜- ***. Mudgee and Orange, New South Wales. Hues of cherry skin in the glass. Strawberries and light smoky notes on the nose. The strawberry character continues on the palate above a sub-structure of integrated tannins – these lead to a dry and persistent finish.

Raidis Estate Billy Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon $23 ˜˜˜- ***. Dense crimson hues. True varietal notes of black currant on the nose along with a hint of smoky oak. The palate reminds me of those black currant pastilles you used to get, the intensity not the sweetness that is. Tannins are nicely incorporated and the wine leaves an overall impression of smoothness.

Turners Crossing Shiraz Viognier 2008 – $25 ˜˜˜˜- ****. Bendigo, Victoria. Black with a purple edge in the glass. Dusty nose with notes of Black Forest cake and a suggestion of liquorice allsorts. A complex and substantial wine in the mouth with an attack of assertive yet integrated tannins supporting flavours of blackberry conserve, cocoa powder, allspice and leather.

Yanjing Beer – about $3 per stubbie. From Beijing, China. Made from malted barley, hops, spring water and rice. Full strength – 4.5% alcohol. A light refreshing style with nice hoppy aromatics. The palate has sweet edges with a background of malt and finishes with mild hops bitterness.

Two Elk Apple Cider – 330ml 4-pack $16. Sweden, 4.5% alcohol. For some reason this made me think of elks acting out the old two dogs joke. A delicate light style. Pleasant autumnal apple aromatics with a palate that will suit drinkers who like cider at the sweeter end of the spectrum.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – fine drinking

*˜ – commercial

Lock & Key Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $15 – ˜˜**. Orange, New South Wales. Light in the glass, edge of green. Sauvignon style at the tropical rather than herbal end of the spectrum. Generous fruit salad nose. Soft and full in the mouth, with hints of pineapple and lychee. Medium dry to finish.

Alta Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2011 – $20 – ˜˜˜***. Almost water pale. Limes and white blossoms permeate the bouquet. Clean, dry style with lovely citrus-oriented flavours and an edge of sherbert like tang to close.

Toolangi Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2009 – RRP $25 – ˜˜**. Bright light straw hues. White peach and apricot on the nose, along with a touch of toasted French oak. More stone fruit in the mouth and dried apples, all nicely balanced with biscuity wood and just enough acid to carry to an off-dry finish.

Bouldevines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 – $32.50 – ***˜˜˜. New Zealand. Medium crimson shades. Dark cherries and raspberries on a savoury-edged nose. Full-on style with soft tannins and a load of ripe, summer berries. The dry and firm finish counterbalances the fruity lusciousness.

Echelon Petit Verdot 2008 – $28 – ˜˜˜***. Mid-ruby. Nose of blueberries and blood plums with light oaky vanilla. Solid berry characters on the palate combine with mildly assertive tannins and synthesise into a satisfyingly chewy mouthfeel.

Rutherglen Estates Durif 2007 – $40 – ˜˜˜˜****. Dense to opaque ruby-red. Warm, almost porty nose. Lip-smacking, chewy tannins lead off in this robust and complex red. It’s a heady melange of plums, blackberries, pencil shavings, anise, mocha, leather, and alcohol. Not for the faint of heart. Serve with a substantial main course and plan for an after dinner nap.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2010 – Up to $15 – ˜˜˜***. Mid-red, purple hues. Blackberries and unassuming oak invite further nosing. Good fruit intensity in the mouth: if you can imagine a non-cloying sauce composed of 85% chocolate infused with blackberry syrup you might be there.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale $4.50 and more the stubbie. ˜˜˜- ***. This is the best US beer I’ve tasted in a long time. A bottle-conditioned (yeast in bottle), full-strength beer (5.6% alcohol) from California. The brew is packed with flavour, slight malt, lovely fragrant hops and a long smooth satisfying palate. It’s up there with my favourite Australian beer, Coopers Sparkling Ale.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Geoff was (and is) an enthusiastic wine collector and, unusually for the times, didn’t only drink fine wine but also kept extensive notes on those he tasted and the various meals they accompanied.

Earlier this year he compiled a selection of these notes (14 November 1974 to 19 July 1977) and was kind enough to send me a copy. I have since told him that he could have had another career as a wine writer.

This excerpt, one of many, is from a meal we shared at Restaurant Chez Bebert on Tuesday 13 January 1976.

With garlic scallops, the McWilliams Mount Pleasant Anne Riesling, 1966. Rich honey-gold colour. The aroma was heavy and musty…good regional character with considerable acidity providing a pleasant balanced feel. Past its peak, but will continue to build great character.

And, Leo Buring Reserve Bin DWC II Barossa Valley Rhine Riesling, 1973. Exceptional quality dry white…delicate varietal expression, balanced, fresh and soft.

With steak, the Leo Buring Claret DR 163, 1964. Soft, broad, slightly earthy nose redolent of Hunter reds. Medium bodied satisfying palate sitting between the lush and the austere. Well balanced with a sharp tannic lift to the finish. Very good wine.

And, the Seppelt Cabernet Sauvignon TTI 47, 1971, Barossa Valley. This won the 1972 Jimmy Watson Trophy for best 1971 dry red. Big cabernet with a great deal of fruit flavor and rather prominent oak on the finish. A low tannin very good, lush wine, but maybe a little soft and fat.

Notes Copyright © 2011 Geoff Parker. 

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Cold Pressed means grapes were frozen and cold pressed at -18C. Light straw. Sweet nose of ripe apricots, pears and Seville marmalade. Palate is light and elegant with sweet fruitiness balanced by lemon zest acidity. Excellent dessert wine. NB I read the back label after tasting this wine and was surprised to find similar comments.

Reillys Riesling 2010 – $18 – AA+

Watervale, Clare Valley, South Australia. Near water pale, light green hue. Fresh sherbert and lime blossom nose. Dry, full, lip smacking, lemon / lime juiciness. Beautifully integrated acidity at the finish.

Thistle Hill Preservative Free Chardonnay 2011 – $22 – AA

Mudgee, New South Wales. No sulphur dioxide added. Very pale in the glass. Nose of white peaches with a hint of lemon zest. Soft rich palate shows dried pears with a hint of tropical fruits.

De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 – Seen for $24 – AA+

Light gold. Perfumey nose of apricot conserve and lightly toasted oak. Generous fruit on the palate is reminiscent of new season stone fruits, while the oak is nicely expressive rather than assertive. Try with a creamy pasta main course.

Houghton Stripe Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2010 – $15 – A+

Western Australia. Crimson in colour. Fruity nose, reminiscent of maraschino cherries. Medium-weighted in the mouth with more of the cherry fruit showing and light tannic astringency. Easy drinking with a pleasing dry finish. Good with main course food.

AC/DC Highway to Hell Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $16 and more – AA

Medium ruby, edge of purple. Dusty, wine gum nose. Dry and medium bodied showing aspects of blackcurrants and blueberries over fairly assertive tannins. Try with well-seasoned main course tucker.

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2008 – $18 – AA

Dark crimson hues. Plums and maybe a hint of chocolate on the nose. Solid red of velvety texture shows plenty of ripe summer berry fruit along with sweet vanillin oak.

Maximus Cadenzia 2009 – $25 – AAA

Mc Laren Vale, South Australia. Grenache 50%, Shiraz 35%, Mourvedre 15%. Dark ruby. Inviting nose of forest fruits and oaky sweet vanilla. Silky texture, buckets of ripe berries in the mouth and a long delicious finish. Good value for money. Hand me another bottle.

Bress Brut Cider – $20 (750ml) – AA

Harcourt, Victoria. 80% cider apples, 20% pears, six months on lees. Pale gold, light bead. Juicy green apple peel nose and a hint of pear juice. Smooth and creamy on the palate with a tad of brioche-like yeastiness. Goes down very easily with a just off-dry finish.

Holey Dollar Premium Rum – around $40

Fiji. Pot still, three years small oak maturation, 40% alcohol. Light sherry hues. Nose of light molasses leavened with a hint of vanilla and maybe a touch of lemon peel. Smooth sweet palate with edges of caramel, vanilla and aged oak. A good sipper on the rocks and a top mixer.

Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale 2011 – $5 (375 ml) – AAA

Top fermented, bottle conditioned ale. Foamy with light toffee hues. Fruity notes on the nose are moderated by hop aromatics. Creamy mouth feel exhibits delicious maltiness, a suggestion of mocha and balancing hoppy bitterness at the finish.

Ratings

AAA+ – extraordinary

AAA – outstanding

AA+ – classy

AA – first-rate

A+ – good stuff

A – commercial

Prices – Australian dollars

A French blend of dark rum from the islands of Martinique, Guadeloupe and Réunion. Light tea hues. Aromatic nose, molasses predominant. A smooth, medium-weighted style; not as medicinal as some dark rums. Well suited to mixin’ rather than sippin’ straight.

d’Arenberg The Noble Botrytotinia F*ckeliana 2010 – $20 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale, South Australia; Semillon / sauvignon blanc blend; 8% alcohol. Sounds more like something itchy you’d go to the clinic for than a sweet white wine. Bright gold. Nose of passionfruit and zest of Seville oranges. Palate is smooth and viscous, laden with flavours of marmalade and rich apricot sauce. At first it tastes indulgently sweet but any hint of cloying is offset by upfront citric acidity. (Re net censors – insert *U above.)

Delatite Dead Man’s Hill Gewurtztraminer 2010 – $25 – ˜˜˜***

Bright, light and pale to the eye. Limes and faint musk and Turkish Delight in the bouquet. Smooth in texture, mouth filling with apple pie and rose water and mild acidity to finish.

Leasingham Bin 7 Clare Valley Riesling 2010- $23 – ˜˜˜***

Light straw. Dried pears, Granny Smith apples and lemon zest on the nose. Lemony, sherbert-like flavours dominate the palate, balancing nicely with a citric tang at the finish.

Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – $29 – ˜˜˜***

Almost water pale. Pungent tomato bush, black currant leaf and lychee nose. Light and bright in the mouth with more leafiness, grassiness and grapefruit notes. Medium acidity to finish.

Lindeman’s Bin 0905 Padthaway Nyrang Shiraz 2009 – $12.90 – **˜˜

Dark crimson, slight purple on the edge. Inviting ripe blackberry conserve on the nose. A dry and medium-weighted palate displays wild berries underpinned by a hint of black olives and savoury smokiness. Finishes firm. Excellent value.

Andrew Garrett Sparkling Shiraz NV – seen for $11 to $14 – ˜˜**

Purplish foam when poured. Ripe plums and dark cherries on the nose. A medium weighted, off-dry sparkler with flavours suggesting Cherry Ripe and Cassis.

Tarrawarra Estate K-Block Merlot 2009 – $35 – ˜˜˜***

Yarra Valley, Victoria. Mid ruby. The nose shows subdued, musky mulberry fruit and tight French oak. In the mouth, rich berry essences and a shade of mint combine with silky tannins and subtle use of barrel fermentation to present an integrated whole.

Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009- $40 – ****˜˜˜˜

Deep red with faint violet hues. Summer pudding nose with a hint of toasted oak. Dry, full and fruity in the mouth with somewhat assertive tannins that will soften nicely with a little bottle age. One to cellar for five years or so or to serve now with substantial main courses.

Fox Creek JSM 2008 – $22.50 – ˜˜˜***

McLaren Vale, South Australia. A blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Dark red to black. Generous plumminess, dark cherries and a hint of dusty oak on the nose. Warm and generous in the mouth where softish tannins support successive layers of ripe berries. Finish is long and moreish.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

˜˜** – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

A chardonnay and pinot noir blend from the house of Martel. Pale gold in colour with the slightest pink tinge; flowers and subtle notes of brioche on the nose. A fuller style, with apricot and dried apple flavours in the mouth along with a hint of citrus. Opens with fruit sweetness and firms up towards the finish.

Hollick Coonawarra Savagnin 2010 – $21 – ˜˜**

Juicy, fresh nose. Zesty, tangy palate with hints of lime and sherbet. Dryish flavoursome finish. Good entrée style.

The Lane Block 2 Pinot Gris 2010 – $30 – ˜˜˜***

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Perfumey spicy nose. Rich, mouth filling style with bags of apple and pear fruit over soft acidity.

Amberley Kiss & Tell Moscato Rosa NV – $15 – ˜˜**

Rosy pink. Raisiny Turkish Delight notes on the nose. Sweetish palate in this light (only 7% alcohol) style. Slight spritzig on the tongue.

Elmswood Estate Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 – $45 – ˜˜˜˜****

Light ruby hues in the glass. Generous strawberry, smoky oak and savoury notes on the nose. Cherries and strawberries lead a dryish, slightly tannic palate in a well constructed take on this difficult varietal.

Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2010 – $40 – ˜˜˜˜****

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Shades of dark cherry to the eye. Powerful, ripe strawberry and maraschino conserves on the nose. A beautifully textured, almost chewy approach. It bursts in the mouth with berry ripeness over well-seasoned oak. One of the few pinots I’ve tasted that would convince welded on shiraz and cabernet drinkers to convert to the Burgundian grape.

Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa Merlot 2006 – $40 – **** ˜˜˜˜

Deep crimson. Aromatic dark berries and a hint of anise on the nose. Smooth, silky tannic structure. Concentrated redcurrants and blueberries blend well with vanillin French oak and lead to a firm, lip-smacking finish.

Ratings

*****˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

Yering Station Yarra Valley Fumé Blanc 2010 – $26 – ˜˜***  - Barrel fermented sauvignon blanc. In this wine, barrel-fermentation has softened much of the herbaceous pungency we expect in unwooded versions. Nevertheless there is still a hint of edgy tomato leaf over the faint woody overtones on the nose. The palate is full and rich and interwoven with sherbet-like acidity.

d’Arenberg McLaren Vale The Dry Dam Riesling 2010 – $15 – ˜˜˜*** Ripe lemon, new season pear and some floral notes on the nose. A generous mouth filling style permeated with lemon and lime intensity. There is a hint of apple pie at the finish. Good aperitif or entrée wine.

Barambah Classic 2010 – $19 – ** – S˜˜outh Burnett, Queensland. A blend of semillon, verdelho and sauvignon blanc. Pale straw hues. Attractive tropical fruit salad nose. Clean and dry in the mouth with a fine edge of citric tang at the finish.

Edenvale Shiraz – Alcohol removed – around $7 – ˜*  - Less than .5 % alcohol, If you’re off the booze this might serve as an alternative. Mid ruby in colour. Sweet plums on the nose. Slightly sweet in the mouth. Light tannic texture underlines Ribena-like aspects.

Invivo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009 – $32 – ˜˜˜˜**** – The colour is light crimson with cherry skin hues. The nose shows strawberry conserve along with savoury smokiness and pencil shavings. Savoury character continues on the palate with aspects of maraschino cherry and strawberry tart. It finishes dry.

Kingston Estate Petit Verdot 2009 – $14 – ˜˜** – Dark red. Ripe plummy nose. A robust style with stacks of fruit over a sub-structure of integrated tannins. Just right for main course dishes. Unquestionable value for money.

Miles from Nowhere Best Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $27 – ˜˜˜˜**** – Margaret River, Western Australia. Cedar chest and blueberries on the nose. The soft yet lengthy palate is reminiscent of tobacco leaf and black currant liqueur. Tight, lip smacking, tannic astringency supports the whole.

Ratings

*****˜˜˜˜˜ – outstanding

****˜˜˜˜ – classy

***˜˜˜ – first-rate

**˜˜ – good stuff

*˜ – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars

He suggests we have to get over our cultural cringe and instead support the local industry by drinking more Australian wine.

I don’t see any evidence to support the alleged cultural cringe effect and I can’t see that in the short to medium term a few weeks boycott of imports will have any significant impact on Australian made wine sales.

There are other more obvious reasons for the popularity of imports. For example, I used to believe that Australian wine was better value for money than imported wine at any price point. That is, you could buy a locally made wine for say, $20 and be fairly confident that any imported wine bought for $20 at the same shop would not offer the same quality.

Not any more. And in a strange way it’s partly the fault of the Australian wine industry.

In recent decades, supported by soaring overseas sales, winemakers have been happy to profit from the resultant increase in price of their wine on the local market. Now, with the boost in the value of the Australian dollar, and with increased competition from new world wine makers, Australian exports have become dearer for overseas buyers and that market has begun to dry up.

As Australian wine exports have become less competitive overseas, imported wines have become cheaper. And, using modern technology (provided by Australia in many cases), imported wines have improved significantly in quality.

It is not surprising then that Australian consumers have turned to imports in their quest for affordable variety and diversity. This is not a cultural cringe. It is a free market based on supply and demand.

I always thought that the strength and success of the Australian wine market was based on offering punters quality product at a competitive price, not on appeals to provincialism. Just shows how much I know about marketing.

See also Aussie petition accused of protectionism and Kiwi wine stays popular with Aussies.

Nepenthe Pinot Gris 2010 – $19 - **- Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Pale, hint of green. Subdued sherbet-like bouquet. Fruity ripe citrus in the mouth. Soft acidity to finish.

Summerhouse Chardonnay 2007 – up to $35 - *** – Marlborough, New Zealand. Mid-golden hues. Apricot conserve, toast, and white flowers on the nose. New season peaches and apricots on the palate with a firm infrastructure of barrel fermentation and firm acidity to finish.

De Bortoli La Bohème Act Two Dry Pinot Noir Rosé 2010 – $18 - **** – Yarra Valley, Victoria. Palest candy pink hues. Sweet strawberries and raspberries on the nose. Lovely dry palate with plenty of summer berries and a delightfully firm finish. Best rosé I’ve tasted this year.

Bellvale Pinot Noir 2007 – $35 – *** – Gippsland, Victoria. Dark cherry hues. Lifted nose of cherries, a hint of smokiness and strawberry tart. Well-fruited style with a hint of maraschino cherry and mid-dry tannins on the palate.

Peter Lehmann Clancy’s 2008 – $13 – ** – Barossa Valley, South Australia. Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot blend. Mid-crimson in colour. Nose of ripe blackberries and blood plums. A style of generous, smooth-textured red which typifies Barossa Valley offerings.

Thistle Hill Shiraz 2010 – $20 – *** – Mudgee, New South Wales. Preservative free. Dark ruby in colour. There is an appealing “thickness” about the nose of this along with mature fruit and hints of coffee and possibly aniseed. Well textured with grippy tannins along with top notes of mature fruit interwoven with earthy bush track character.

Zema Estate Coonawarra Shiraz 2007 – $25 – **** – Dark crimson, purple edges. Aromatic bouquet of dark berries. Solid offering of mouth-filling fruit combined with slightly chewy texture. A firm, forceful aftertaste demands the accompaniment of main course dishes. Cellar to 2015.

Ratings

***** – outstanding

**** - classy

*** - first-rate

** - good stuff

* – commercial

Prices in Australian dollars