Stepping into the venerable cellars at the Henschke winery in Keyneton is a real trip into the past. The marks of generations of Henschkes having been hewn into the stony structures since the mid-nineteenth century.
In the winery are rows of open concrete fermenters still in use after numerous vintages, and the visitor may picture how winemakers in earlier days used gravity rather than motorised pumps to process young wines.
Henschke Winery - old concrete vats
A few tasting notes: 2008 Louis Semillon, very pale, penetrating, clean herbal nose; nicely balanced and just off-dry in the mouth with pleasant acidity. 2009 Green’s Hill Riesling, pale, with a steely citrus bouquet and a full-on palate with notes of lime and lemon marmalade.
2008 Giles Pinot Noir, perfumey lifted flowers and strawberries on the nose, an elegant dry style in the mouth showing cherries and strawberries – a beautiful entrée accompaniment. 2006 Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Lovely rich nose of summer berries and fine black pepper; blackberries and an edge of savouriness in the mouth with undertones of mint and chocolate; fine silky tannins.
We also liked Prue’s Verjus – made from the blended juice of not quite ripe riesling, chardonnay and muscat grapes. The taste is like tart apple juice or very delicate vinegar, and it serves as a tasty alternative to sharp vinegars in salad dressings.
Stephen and Prue Henschke have a well-deserved reputation for fastidiousness in their approach to viticulture and winemaking and that attention to detail has taken their wines to the forefront of wine collectability in the marketplace.